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Vanguard's guide to jacket vents

14/2/2020

Following on from our pockets post last week, we would like to look at another option that "maketh the suit", vents.

When talking about jackets, a vent is a vertical opening at the base of the jacket normally to just above the seat area. Originally created for horseback riding their purpose remaining largely unchanged, to give ease of movement and retain the lines of jacket when sitting and moving.

With a little less variety than pockets there are 3 options to choose from, none, one & two, each with some benefits. We will start with Vanguard's favourite, two vents.

Two vents - AKA side vents/double vents

Two vents make an elegant choice for nearly all men’s suits. Traditionally an integral part of the British cut two vents offer less constriction of movement and easier access to your trouser pockets for the times you need to go fishing for small change, keys, etc.

This style is also suitable for nearly all body shapes. Men who have a slightly stooped posture, a curved lower back or a prominent seat will find jackets with one vent do not hang so well.

One vent - AKA single/centre vent

This option is traditionally part of the American cut. It’s somewhat of a compromise between two vents and none, offering some freedom of movement when sitting. As mentioned above it’s not suitable for all body shapes.

Here at Vanguard we like a centre vents on more casual blazers with a boxier fit as it sits stylistically with the whole look.

For our female clientele a centre vent will sit better for longer jackets. It affords our cutters more opportunity to accentuate shape from waist through to seat area. We also feel it has a slightly less masculine look on a women’s blazer in comparison to two vents.

For black tie a single vent is becoming acceptable on tuxedos. This is only on more modern tuxedos in less traditional colours, perhaps with slimmer lapels, stand alone dinner jackets for weddings rather than formal occasions.

No Vents/Vent-less

Traditionally this was the Italian cut. For everyday work suits we do not advise this option as the wearer can find movement restrictive. Also when sitting unless you completely take off your jacket you will find the back seat area can become crushed. That said there are a few occasions when no vents are advisable.

For formal black/white tie tuxedos jackets should have no vents, no if’s no but’s!
For female clientele creating a cropped jacket that sits above the seat line this is nice option to create a very waisted silhouette.

In conclusion; for those in any doubt go for a double vent on all suit jacket except formal tuxedos. For women a single vent on all but the most cropped jackets is the safest option.

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Vanguard's guide to choosing the right pocket for your jacket

5/2/2020

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When creating a bespoke jacket there are near countless options & combinations of these options to choose from. One of the most important ones to completing the look is choosing the right pocket style. A few things need to be taken into consideration such as fabric, the cut, the lapel design, end use of the suit, the wearer's body shape & personal style can all factor. To an untrained eye it can be simple to go for the safest option, in the hands of one of our experts we can guide you through this process seamlessly.

Here will run through 6 main pocket styles and give some insight into what they can offer your look.

1. Patch pockets

Vanguard offers a few different styles with patch pockets, from the clean plain patch to the box pleated and flapped.
Patch pockets give a more casual feel to a jacket and thus they work particularly well on a casual/weekend piece in tweed, linen, cotton & seersucker. They look really great on bold over-check jacketing fabrics but will take the overall look into the casual realm.

2. Slanted pockets

These used to sit in the more casual styling of a lounge suit but times have changed!
We like a slanted pocket in combination with a peaked lapel &/or a 1 button jacket as it creates flattering lines on the body. On stripes these look great but we normally advise against them on check fabrics as it goes against the square pattern of the cloth. We also make an extreme slant on the pocket for the more adventurous patron!

3. Straight flapped pockets

This is the traditional business suit pocket, it looks clean, totally functional, you can’t really go wrong. Along with all styles of flapped pockets the flaps can be tucked in to look like a flapless jetted pocket for a cleaner look. We prefer these on checked cloths as it follows the lines of the fabric & double breasted to follow the alignment of the buttons.

4. Jetted pockets

These are essentially the same as the flapped pocket just minus the flaps. As a flapped pocket gives you the option to tuck in or tuck out your flap (thus creating 2 different looks) we prefer to always go with flaps except in a few circumstances.
It is still uncouth to have a flapped pocket on dressier jackets such as tuxedos and morning jackets. When choosing a more modern style with piped edges and contrast detailing (such as our patron in the photo above) this cleaner pocket can emphasize those details.

5. Ticket pockets

We love ticket pockets. Do read our separate blog all about the humble ticket pocket and it’s history. We feel this gives a jacket a slight dandy & bespoke touch. Originally for tickets (hence the name) we find it very handy for business cards.
This works well on larger frames who chose plain fabrics, as it helps to break up a large expanse of one colour. A ticket pocket can (and we feel should!) be added to patch, slanted, flapped and jetted pockets.

6. Welt pocket.
The simplest of pocket styles this really should only be sported on waistcoats & nehru jackets. (Barring the breast pocket of a jacket of course!)
Clean and simple, we like these on patterned fabrics such as this twirl two tone linen, sported by our found Mighel Critten. Keeping the styling simple allows the fabric to speak for itself and not overload the eye.

Notice Mighel added a ticket pocket to this also? Like I said we love them!

And that's a wrap on our pocket rundown. There are many variations on the above styles and while the choices can be bewildering, our experts will guide you through the process of creating a perfect bespoke piece. To book an appointment today click here!

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Vanguard's guide to jacket vents

Two vents - AKA side vents/double vents

One vent - AKA single/centre vent

No Vents/Vent-less

Vanguard's guide to choosing the right pocket for your jacket

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