​Recent controversies sprung all over the Internet when South Korean President Moon Jae-in tweeted picture of him wearing the sleeveless jacket gifted to him by Prime Minister Narendra Modi.
 
Some are calling it Nehru Jacket, and some are calling it Modi Jacket, how about we call it All India jacket. 
 
When India’s first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru started wearing the jacket in 1940s, it became popular among the fashionistas of Delhi. The jacket, rather known as Bandi the word derived from the Sanskrit Bandhnati meaning ‘to fasten’ or ‘to tie’ was inspired by the Mughal era, tailored by the westerner became the formal wear for the rich and powerful gentlemen. It was hip-length, full sleeved and well-tailored jacket worn during winter. 

After half a century later, the now Prime Minister popularized the jacket that is perhaps inspired by Nehru Jacket, but this time around it was tailored without sleeves, with a relaxed fit and in 50 shades of khadi and wearable all the year round. And all these in one jacket, that too in a affordable price range, people started running to shop and asking for “Modi Jacket”. And soon it became the fashion trend of mass people.

Keeping politics aside, both Nehru and Modi were and are trendsetters of their times and gave us jackets that truly belong to All India!

The lapel width for example is not wide enough for their frame, to get a suit that big enough to put on and close the buttons the balance from front to back is all off. Trousers are often not tapered specifically for the larger waist and you can end up drowning in fabric.

With any tailor worth his salt there is no plus size, no broad size, no petite size, it either fits or it doesn't fit. There are some additional things to consider when you are plus size which we expertly guide our customers through.

For broad guys:
A lot of broad guys see photos of James Bond and want their jacket closely nipped in at the waist. This creates quite a feminine proportion, to achieve a good balance you should allow a little more space in the waist of your jacket.

For tall guys:
A one button jacket creates a very deep V, it is advisable to choose a 2 or 3 button jacket to correct the proportion. These guys will often have large feet and contrary to popular belief a wider leg trouser just doesn't work. You want to keep it tapered and trim otherwise there will be a lot of fabric flapping around on those longer legs.

For rounder guys:
First consider where you where your trousers, on or under your tummy. Wearing your trousers on your tummy will create a sleaker silouette, you will need to wear braces/suspenders but these can be very comfortable. You can make the trousers a bit bigger on the waist so when you are sitting you have a little room to expand.
Waistcoats are great for rounder guys, especially a double breasted. It stops a hard line across your middle where your shirt meets your trouser, keeping your overall look neat.