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A ticket pocket - what is it and do I need it?

27/1/2019

1 Comment

 
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A ticket pocket on a suit refers to a small flapped or jetted pocket normally found on the right side of a jacket and roughly half the width of a regular pocket. You may have been sporting this dandy feature without knowing or perhaps you think it is a new fad but this humble pocket has a long British sartorial history dating back to the 1600's and it was not used for tickets as today's name might suggest.
When the first toll roads, or as they were then known turnpike roads were introduced, people traveling on horse back found they needed to have access to change to pay for these tolls. To save gentlemen of the middle ages opening their jackets to pay tolls they had their tailors make a small change pocket on their equestrian jackets. This was made slightly higher so it would be easier to access while sitting on their horse.

It was only in the mid 1800's when railroads and train travel became hugely popular that this small coin pocket was adapted to what we know it as now, namely a ticket pocket that was used for train tickets. Urban gentleman getting frustrated with having to search their pockets for tickets started having this small extra pocket tailored on their work suits.
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Today this is not a necessary item, most of us store our travel tickets digitally or travel by car. But this is still popular in bespoke circles not just in Britain but sported by well heeled men (and women) the world over to show a little extra panache and style IQ. It does still have some practical use in today's world, it is the perfect size and very handy for storing business/visiting cards.
Really you could use it for any purpose, a key, money, receipts, metro card, aspirin, a pen drive, a tea bag, the list goes on!
And it also works very well for tall and larger gentlemen, as it breaks up a large expanse of fabric with a fine detail.
If you like this British-dandy vibe there are a couple of simple rules to follow.

Traditionally it is always on the right side.

Should you be left handed this may seem counter intuitive to you, however with the breast pocket on the left side your jacket can look a little unbalanced with 3 pockets on one side and 1 on the other. If you definitely want a left side ticket pocket then go all out and have them on both sides to keep the look balanced.

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Ticket pockets are a great addition to a seasonal blazer such as a Harris Tweed sports coat or a linen summer jacket.
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Book an appointment today and let us guide you on a sartorial journey.
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A well tailored or Off the rack suit: Can make or break a business deal!

23/1/2019

2 Comments

 
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​Are you in constant dilemma when it comes to wear a suit  in a business meeting, networking event, or even a job interview? Many of you’d just rush off to a store or your local tailors to buy or make a suit that perhaps don’t fit you right, but you have got no choice but make comprise with that ill fitted suit. And when you dress in a frumpy suit, you’re in a constant battle in your mind about your appearance; you feel uncomfortable, lack in confidence and eventually perform ineffectually even though you have got the skills and expertise to win the heart of your investors, customers or employers!


On the contrary, you can put a little bit of extra effort in a well tailored suit that has just been made to your body measurements fits you impeccably and gives you a sharp, stylish and polished look. Not only a well tailored suit makes your look more flattering, but it is also going to last you for a lifetime.

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Most importantly a well tailored suit gives a great first impression of yours and your company to your investors and customers; increases the chances of them perceiving you as someone confident and competent in their job and makes it lot easier to close the deal!

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Nehru VS. Modi: Whom the Jacket belongs to?

9/1/2019

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​Recent controversies sprung all over the Internet when South Korean President Moon Jae-in tweeted picture of him wearing the sleeveless jacket gifted to him by Prime Minister Narendra Modi.
 
Some are calling it Nehru Jacket, and some are calling it Modi Jacket, how about we call it All India jacket. 
 
When India’s first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru started wearing the jacket in 1940s, it became popular among the fashionistas of Delhi. The jacket, rather known as Bandi the word derived from the Sanskrit Bandhnati meaning ‘to fasten’ or ‘to tie’ was inspired by the Mughal era, tailored by the westerner became the formal wear for the rich and powerful gentlemen. It was hip-length, full sleeved and well-tailored jacket worn during winter. 
In the 1960’s the famous UK music band Beatles came on a music tour, they were captivated and wore the Nehru jacket on their music tour. They even brought style back to the UK and popularised it as the Beatles Jacket. 
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After half a century later, the now Prime Minister popularized the jacket that is perhaps inspired by Nehru Jacket, but this time around it was tailored without sleeves, with a relaxed fit and in 50 shades of khadi and wearable all the year round. And all these in one jacket, that too in a affordable price range, people started running to shop and asking for “Modi Jacket”. And soon it became the fashion trend of mass people.

Keeping politics aside, both Nehru and Modi were and are trendsetters of their times and gave us jackets that truly belong to All India!

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January 09th, 2019

9/1/2019

0 Comments

 

Plus size, big and tall, portulent, even curvy are all phases coined to describe gentlemen who are a little taller, a little rounder or a little broader.

If you fall into this category you know how difficult it is to buy any kind of clothing. Off the rack clothing is designed for a model with V shape physic and then graded up to larger sizes. This just doesn't work for any of those that fall into the plus size category, the scale and balance is all wrong.

This is where we come in.

A great suit should be your boardroom battle armour, you put it on in the morning and no matter what you have in your calendar you are dressed impeccably for any challenge. So few guys fall into the regular shape and scale of off the peg that bespoke is the best option, this becomes more apparent on plus size guys.
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The lapel width for example is not wide enough for their frame, to get a suit that big enough to put on and close the buttons the balance from front to back is all off. Trousers are often not tapered specifically for the larger waist and you can end up drowning in fabric.

With any tailor worth his salt there is no plus size, no broad size, no petite size, it either fits or it doesn't fit. There are some additional things to consider when you are plus size which we expertly guide our customers through.

For broad guys:
A lot of broad guys see photos of James Bond and want their jacket closely nipped in at the waist. This creates quite a feminine proportion, to achieve a good balance you should allow a little more space in the waist of your jacket.

For tall guys:
A one button jacket creates a very deep V, it is advisable to choose a 2 or 3 button jacket to correct the proportion. These guys will often have large feet and contrary to popular belief a wider leg trouser just doesn't work. You want to keep it tapered and trim otherwise there will be a lot of fabric flapping around on those longer legs.

For rounder guys:
First consider where you where your trousers, on or under your tummy. Wearing your trousers on your tummy will create a sleaker silouette, you will need to wear braces/suspenders but these can be very comfortable. You can make the trousers a bit bigger on the waist so when you are sitting you have a little room to expand.
Waistcoats are great for rounder guys, especially a double breasted. It stops a hard line across your middle where your shirt meets your trouser, keeping your overall look neat.
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  • Home
  • House of Vanguard
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