January 09th, 2019

Plus size, big and tall, portulent, even curvy are all phases coined to describe gentlemen who are a little taller, a little rounder or a little broader.

If you fall into this category you know how difficult it is to buy any kind of clothing. Off the rack clothing is designed for a model with V shape physic and then graded up to larger sizes. This just doesn't work for any of those that fall into the plus size category, the scale and balance is all wrong.

This is where we come in.

A great suit should be your boardroom battle armour, you put it on in the morning and no matter what you have in your calendar you are dressed impeccably for any challenge. So few guys fall into the regular shape and scale of off the peg that bespoke is the best option, this becomes more apparent on plus size guys.

The lapel width for example is not wide enough for their frame, to get a suit that big enough to put on and close the buttons the balance from front to back is all off. Trousers are often not tapered specifically for the larger waist and you can end up drowning in fabric.

With any tailor worth his salt there is no plus size, no broad size, no petite size, it either fits or it doesn't fit. There are some additional things to consider when you are plus size which we expertly guide our customers through.

For broad guys:
A lot of broad guys see photos of James Bond and want their jacket closely nipped in at the waist. This creates quite a feminine proportion, to achieve a good balance you should allow a little more space in the waist of your jacket.

For tall guys:
A one button jacket creates a very deep V, it is advisable to choose a 2 or 3 button jacket to correct the proportion. These guys will often have large feet and contrary to popular belief a wider leg trouser just doesn't work. You want to keep it tapered and trim otherwise there will be a lot of fabric flapping around on those longer legs.

For rounder guys:
First consider where you where your trousers, on or under your tummy. Wearing your trousers on your tummy will create a sleaker silouette, you will need to wear braces/suspenders but these can be very comfortable. You can make the trousers a bit bigger on the waist so when you are sitting you have a little room to expand.
Waistcoats are great for rounder guys, especially a double breasted. It stops a hard line across your middle where your shirt meets your trouser, keeping your overall look neat.