VANGUARD BESPOKE - Journal

VANGUARD BESPOKE

Vanguard's guide to jacket vents

14/2/2020

Following on from our pockets post last week, we would like to look at another option that "maketh the suit", vents.

When talking about jackets, a vent is a vertical opening at the base of the jacket normally to just above the seat area. Originally created for horseback riding their purpose remaining largely unchanged, to give ease of movement and retain the lines of jacket when sitting and moving.

With a little less variety than pockets there are 3 options to choose from, none, one & two, each with some benefits. We will start with Vanguard's favourite, two vents.

Two vents - AKA side vents/double vents

Two vents make an elegant choice for nearly all men’s suits. Traditionally an integral part of the British cut two vents offer less constriction of movement and easier access to your trouser pockets for the times you need to go fishing for small change, keys, etc.

This style is also suitable for nearly all body shapes. Men who have a slightly stooped posture, a curved lower back or a prominent seat will find jackets with one vent do not hang so well.

One vent - AKA single/centre vent

This option is traditionally part of the American cut. It’s somewhat of a compromise between two vents and none, offering some freedom of movement when sitting. As mentioned above it’s not suitable for all body shapes.

Here at Vanguard we like a centre vents on more casual blazers with a boxier fit as it sits stylistically with the whole look.

For our female clientele a centre vent will sit better for longer jackets. It affords our cutters more opportunity to accentuate shape from waist through to seat area. We also feel it has a slightly less masculine look on a women’s blazer in comparison to two vents.

For black tie a single vent is becoming acceptable on tuxedos. This is only on more modern tuxedos in less traditional colours, perhaps with slimmer lapels, stand alone dinner jackets for weddings rather than formal occasions.

No Vents/Vent-less

Traditionally this was the Italian cut. For everyday work suits we do not advise this option as the wearer can find movement restrictive. Also when sitting unless you completely take off your jacket you will find the back seat area can become crushed. That said there are a few occasions when no vents are advisable.

For formal black/white tie tuxedos jackets should have no vents, no if’s no but’s!
For female clientele creating a cropped jacket that sits above the seat line this is nice option to create a very waisted silhouette.

In conclusion; for those in any doubt go for a double vent on all suit jacket except formal tuxedos. For women a single vent on all but the most cropped jackets is the safest option.

Vanguard's guide to choosing the right pocket for your jacket

5/2/2020

When creating a bespoke jacket there are near countless options & combinations of these options to choose from. One of the most important ones to completing the look is choosing the right pocket style. A few things need to be taken into consideration such as fabric, the cut, the lapel design, end use of the suit, the wearer's body shape & personal style can all factor. To an untrained eye it can be simple to go for the safest option, in the hands of one of our experts we can guide you through this process seamlessly.

Here will run through 6 main pocket styles and give some insight into what they can offer your look.

1. Patch pockets

Vanguard offers a few different styles with patch pockets, from the clean plain patch to the box pleated and flapped.
Patch pockets give a more casual feel to a jacket and thus they work particularly well on a casual/weekend piece in tweed, linen, cotton & seersucker. They look really great on bold over-check jacketing fabrics but will take the overall look into the casual realm.

2. Slanted pockets

These used to sit in the more casual styling of a lounge suit but times have changed!
We like a slanted pocket in combination with a peaked lapel &/or a 1 button jacket as it creates flattering lines on the body. On stripes these look great but we normally advise against them on check fabrics as it goes against the square pattern of the cloth. We also make an extreme slant on the pocket for the more adventurous patron!

3. Straight flapped pockets

This is the traditional business suit pocket, it looks clean, totally functional, you can’t really go wrong. Along with all styles of flapped pockets the flaps can be tucked in to look like a flapless jetted pocket for a cleaner look. We prefer these on checked cloths as it follows the lines of the fabric & double breasted to follow the alignment of the buttons.

4. Jetted pockets

These are essentially the same as the flapped pocket just minus the flaps. As a flapped pocket gives you the option to tuck in or tuck out your flap (thus creating 2 different looks) we prefer to always go with flaps except in a few circumstances.
It is still uncouth to have a flapped pocket on dressier jackets such as tuxedos and morning jackets. When choosing a more modern style with piped edges and contrast detailing (such as our patron in the photo above) this cleaner pocket can emphasize those details.

5. Ticket pockets

We love ticket pockets. Do read our separate blog all about the humble ticket pocket and it’s history. We feel this gives a jacket a slight dandy & bespoke touch. Originally for tickets (hence the name) we find it very handy for business cards.
This works well on larger frames who chose plain fabrics, as it helps to break up a large expanse of one colour. A ticket pocket can (and we feel should!) be added to patch, slanted, flapped and jetted pockets.

6. Welt pocket.
The simplest of pocket styles this really should only be sported on waistcoats & nehru jackets. (Barring the breast pocket of a jacket of course!)
Clean and simple, we like these on patterned fabrics such as this twirl two tone linen, sported by our found Mighel Critten. Keeping the styling simple allows the fabric to speak for itself and not overload the eye.

Notice Mighel added a ticket pocket to this also? Like I said we love them!

And that's a wrap on our pocket rundown. There are many variations on the above styles and while the choices can be bewildering, our experts will guide you through the process of creating a perfect bespoke piece. To book an appointment today click here!

A quick guide to: "Buttoning Etiquette"

26/1/2020

Wishing all here in India a Happy Republic Day!
We hope you enjoy this sartorial post on “buttoning etiquette”.

Jackets - The rules to follow when buttoning are shown in the grapic above “Always, Never, Sometimes”. A lot of men prefer not fasten their jackets, however you are comfortable.
Do note that following the above rules for your jacket fastening even if only when entering a room will help accentuate a V-Shape or conceal love handles.
Of course when you sit down please unfasten your jacket and give yourself room to breathe. And all the above can also be abandoned in cold or windy weather, wrap up & button up so you do not catch a cold!

Shirts: Needless to say when wearing a neck tie all buttons need to be fastened. A sure fire sign of a cheap/ill fitting shirt is one where to wearer has the collar button unfastened when wearing a tie.
If you opt to not wear a tie, you can button the shirt to the top for what millennial's now call the “air tie” look - also known as the “mod look” to those over a certain age. Nowadays this still looks smart enough for the office or a function and can work particularly well with shirts that have some detail on the collar.
Nowadays wearing your top collar button unfastened is acceptable for day wear, still not for a formal meeting or event. For a casual/weekend look you can unfasten another button for comfort, this works particularly well if you have requested a slightly higher buttoning from your tailor.

Waistcoat:

The etiquette when wearing a waistcoat is to keep the last button unfastened.
This dates back over 100 years to a rather fat king of England, George VII. His voracious appetite and ever expanding waistline made it difficult for him to comfortably fasten his bottom button, so he simply didn't. So as not to make him feel bad all the men at court followed suit and started wearing theirs unfastened. And so this slightly odd fashion trend began and to this day is followed religiously by tailoring affectionados.

Interestingly and lesser known, the "sometimes, always, never" rule for jackets also dates back to King Edward VII.
It was during his time that the modern day lounge suit started to appear, originally as a 3 button single breasted jacket as a more comfortable dress for riding. As it was a riding jacket the bottom button had to be undone as it fell below the waistline. This new style of jacket became hugely popular during Edward’s reign and he decided that it “looked common” to wear with the top button fastened, thus leaving just the middle button to fasten his coat.

And so began another trend that goes on to this day.

For more fun facts, suiting advice & impeccable tailoring book an appointment with one of our tailoring experts today!

Vanguard Bespoke now weaving epic tales

17/1/2020

Through the ages storytelling has taken many forms; including the written word, song, dance, painting, couture looks and designer collections. Every human culture has a method of storytelling, each is uniquely special and beautiful in a myriad of ways. Nearly all share a common theme, passing on the history of a culture to the next generation.

To share a couple of interesting examples:
Native Hawaiians passed their values, traditions, history and cultural practices through chants, song, hula and verse. ‘Mele Hula’ meaning song and dance are chants performed with dance and/or musical instruments. What is really interesting here, is that the Hula dancers don’t dance to the beats of music but to the words of tales of mythology and creation. Without the words the dance means nothing.

The Bayeux Tapestry in all it’s beauty captures a historical event that changed a country, the Norman Conquest of England in 1066. Interestingly it is neither tapestry nor was it made in Bayeux.

It is eight strips of linen with embroidery work in different coloured woolen threads (to be a tapestry it would need to be woven not embroidered). The tapestry depicts a military invasion from the perspective of the victors, (history is always written by the winners!) It is a spirited telling of the story featuring nude figures & corpses, blood & gore, birds & beasts as well as scenes from fables, agriculture and hunting. No wonder it has been imitated by cartoonists in recent history, especially by political satirists.

After relocating Vanguard Bespoke’s HQ to Delhi, Mighel has been fascinated with the rich Indian culture that uses textiles and surface ornamentation to tell stories; from everyday scenes to epic tales. The techniques used themselves are as diverse as they are marvelous.

From the royal city of Lucknow, Zari Zardorzi is one such persian technique brought to India centuries ago. It uses metallic bounds threads, sewn into the fabric or embroidered on fabrics creating elaborate designs.

Supporting local craftspeople Vanguard Bespoke are now creating unique and modern scenes to adorn our suits and Bangladhalas. Rich in colour and decoration these fabrics create special pieces for special days, that will be cherished for a lifetime.

The pictures below will end up making a wedding tuxedo jacket. In midnight blue velvet, (made ever popular for tuxedo's today by Daniel Craig's James Bond) the jacket will feature an intricate scene in black and black metallic embroidery. This colour combination is a classy option for someone who wants to show an appreciation for this fine art form but still abide by some suiting norms; such as colour codes in tuxedo's.

In work with Vanguard Bespoke's craftspeople is another piece which has a little more pazazz. Based on an Indian safari theme it features lions, tigers, peacocks and cheetahs in a rich colour palette. Individually designed for one of our patrons this cloth is heavy with Zari-Zardosi hand embroidery, a single jacket can take up to three months to create. Once finished our talented tailors will sculpt the fabric into a perfectly fitted Wedding Bandhgala.

Should you wish to create such a special bespoke piece get in touch with our tailoring experts. As with every Vanguard Bespoke piece we will create something truly unique for you, just leave plenty of time for our the craftspeople to create their magic!

Welcome to the 20's, a century in suits

11/1/2020

As we move into 2020 let's look back at 1920’s, the fashions and more importantly the suits that defined the era.

The roaring twenties, as they are known, had a lot going on; economic growth, jazz, art deco, androgyny and women's rights movements. A period of decadence between two world changing wars, the 1920's were one of the most influential in changing the fashion scene. Men and women started abandoning century old norms and embraced more comfortable styles.

Suits men wear today are still very similar to those worn in the late 1920’s. The increasing influence of sports stars in the 20’s and the more relaxed tailoring they wore introduced new suit styles to the 1920’s man. Thus men’s style in the twenties embraced this new inspiration while continuing to uphold a traditional and classical elegance.

A high point and great reference point for 1920’s fashion was and continues to be The Great Gatsby.

A classic novel by F. Scott Fitzgerald that was turned into a film, first in 1974 the again in 2013; an epic movie by Baz Luhrmann. The movie particularly exhibited the best of both casual and more formal twentie's styles. The formal diversity of men’s twenties style DiCaprio as Jay Gatsby showcased the best of neutral tailoring. Joel Edgerton’s (as Tom Buchanan) style displayed the sporty influence of the twenties and Toby Maguire’s (as Nick Carraway) hinged on a more playful aesthetic.

The 1920’s was an even bigger turning point in Women’s fashion. Ditching corsets, women started adopting the straighter lines of men's apparel and androgyny re-defined elegance for women.

Along with the Suffrage movement & shifting Victorian values came pants, button-up shirts and suits.

It was in 1923 that was the launch of the first ladies suit by designer Coco Chanel. The Chanel Suit was a collarless, boxy jacket and a straight or A-line skirt; the suits would often be decorated with braid trim or metallic buttons in jersey or a tweed made of boucle yarn which has a distinctive nubby appearance. Coco herself started sporting trouser suits in the 1920's but it took two more decades for trousers to become everyday acceptable wear for women.

One century on we find ourselves at a turning point in suiting norms not dissimilar to what we saw in the 1920’s. The 2020 modern man continues to embrace this formality but with playfulness of textures and colours and always keeping comfort in mind.
In 2020 Women’s equality and parity in the workplace is still not where it should be. Yet as more women break through the glass ceiling, the Women’s Power Suit is still a wardrobe staple, continuing the legacy started a century ago by the suffragettes & Coco Chanel.

So in 2020, what roaring bespoke pieces will you be adding to your wardrobe?
Discuss it with our tailoring expert today

New fabric range launch - peace silk suiting

11/11/2019

We are thrilled to introduce our exclusive range of Peace silk, specially woven by Vanguard in a sumptuous, soft casual suiting cloth, for men and women.

Working with a group of weavers in Assam, we have developed our exclusive range of suiting woven from 100% authentic peace silk. We are launching this cloth in 3 gorgeous colourways, indigo, walnut brown and grey.

For those who don't know, Peace silk (also known Ahimsa Silk) is silk derived from a non-violent and humane method of harvesting and breeding silkworms. In comparison to traditional method of killing the larvae, this method allows completion of the metamorphosis of the silkworm to the butterfly allowing the moth to live. Hence based on Mahatma Gandhi's and religious philosophies of non-violence, peace silk is made in the stringent social and environmental standards in Assam.

A form of wild silk, these mostly come from the Tussah or Tassar silk moth. The thread of the Tussahide spinner is coarser and uneven, giving our cloths a gorgeous slub effect similar to linen cloths. in comparison of the mulberry silk moth. Woven with a white weft and naturally dyed warp threads gives this fabric a denim outlook.

All the above processes gives peace silk a lightweight, soft, sumptuous and effortlessly elegant look which makes it a fantastic luxury fabric for the Asian subcontinent weather and occasions.

A blazer or bandhgala in these fabric is 20k INR,/24k BDT & a 2 piece suit for 30k INR/36k BDT. Featured here a skirt suit this fabric would tailor well for men and women alike. The denim feel and look of this fabric combined with the soft and sumptuous feel of the cloth will hit the smart/casual tailored look on the head.

Speak to your tailoring expert today to take a look at these limited edition and exclusive Vanguard Bespoke fabrics.

"Friends with benefits" - promotion extended

30/10/2019

We all have friends that we 'benefit’ and enrich our lives from. You would ask a friend to help you pick out an outfit for an important day or if you had to pick a restaurant, wouldn’t you go by the recommendation of a friend rather than a flashy advertisement? The reason we do this is the trust we hold in our friends and loved ones.

So if you love our impeccable tailoring and trust us, you can help us get the ‘Vanguard Bespoke’ word out. As a special thank you, for every recommendation passed on (and we receive an order for a bespoke suit) you will receive a bespoke chino or a bespoke shirt from our luxury range, absolutely free!

We have been running this promotion for the past three months and have given away over 50 rewards to date. To show our ongoing appreciation for you; our valued patrons, we are extending this promotion until the end of November.

Everyone ‘benefits’, hence the title! :-)
There is no better advertisement than a recommendation & our happy patrons wearing more Vanguard Bespoke creations than before.

T&C's

Recommended clients must make a minimum purchase of a 2 piece suit or a mid-luxury range blazer/overcoat*
Offer is valid in India, Bangladesh & UK only
Offer will end on 30th November 2019

New "boating stripe" fabric range available from UK mill, Bateman & Ogden

10/10/2019

In our ongoing ending quest to curate and bring the best tailoring fabric library to our customers, we are very excited to start carrying some books from another UK mill, Bateman & Ogden.

Based in the Midlands of the UK, Bateman & Ogden have been making exquisite suitings since 1881. Exclusively made in some of the finest textile mills of Yorkshire, Bateman & Ogden offer you opulent fabrics with class, elegance and style. Blending traditional favourites with innovative new designs, they offer a vast array of classic and contemporary ranges. Vanguard will be carrying 12 of their top ranges, including super 160 cloths, premium blends such as silk, linen & mohair.

One that we are most excited about is the Boating Stripe range.

The term blazer was born in 1825 at the Lady Margaret Boat Club in 1825; the rowing club of St. John's College in Cambridge. The Lady Margaret club jackets were termed blazers because of the bright red cloth used in the original design (blaze-er).

The term blazer survived the original red coat and went on to be created in a multitude of colours and stripes; known as boating stripes. These stripes since have come to be associated with sporting events and specific boating clubs.

In the 1960's the boating blazer (with a few notable modifications) became synonymous with the "Mod" look. From the Ivy league of America to Carnaby Street in London, the Mod's modified the boating blazer to a 3 button affair, ditched the gold buttons, club crest patches and added a ticket pocket to the right side.
Pictured here a very young Eric Clapton in 1963 when he was in yarnbirds!

Nowadays, for the traditional gentleman these make great blazers for sporting events such as regattas and cricket matches. For the more fashion-savvy, these would make statements pieces that can easily be teamed up with chinos or jeans.
For women especially these would make excellent business and semi-formal dress. These striking stripes would make a bold statement and the stripes would add an elongating appearance.

Blazers in these luxurious British fabrics are available from:
25k INR, 30k BDT, 350 GBP

Book an appointment today to see these beautiful fabrics in a diverse range of modern stripes

New - charming & flamboyant printed lining range

15/8/2019

As the new season approaches we are receiving a number of new & updated books in our vast library. Mighel continues to visit the top fabric mills around the world to ensure we have an unrivaled selection of fabrics for you to choose from for any occasion.

Today we would like to highlight an exciting new range of linings we have added to our library for a mill in north Italy. This collection of 50 designs inspired by nature, life, hobbies & travel. Printed on a lightweight silky, satin cloth these are great for summer and winter suits alike. Below is a selection of some of Mighel's favourite designs from the book, with such a variety to choose from we are sure there will be at least a few that will speak to any of our patrons.

These may not be for the fainthearted, but do remember the lining of your suit is rarely seen by anyone but you, so it is a great way to express your personality; even inside a very classic work suit.

Book an appointment to see these and some of the gorgeous new fabric designs, colours, patterns & ranges we have to offer.

Ask the tailor - What to wear to meet your tailor?

2/7/2019

If it is your first time meeting with a tailor you might be unsure of what to expect and I often get asked by clients what they should wear.

Firstly be assured a meting with Vanguard is a seamless and enjoyable experience. We expertly guide you through the process and advise you along the way of making your commissions. We usually meet clients in their homes, workplaces or at our comfortable studio in Delhi, so do not feel like you have to wear anything special.

The one thing we do ask, if you are being measured for a suit or trouser, is to wear a formal pant or chino. Jeans, shorts, skirts or loose fitting pants can make the measuring process a little more difficult but by no means impossible!

If you have a suit that you love the fit of bring it with you. We will look at it together and deduce if the style, silhouette & cut is the most flattering for you. Even if there are some things you don't like this is a great starting point. If you are buying something for a special occasion and you already have the shoes or shirt that will be worn with the suit, it's great to bring these so we can make sure we create something that will compliment.

Ultimately, we want you to be comfortable throughout our consultation. Though you may wish to wear something that shows your personal style and the tailored look you’re hoping to achieve with your next garment, there’s no rule to say this is necessary. Because, of course, we will be able to visualize and create your perfect suit whatever you wear for you consultation.