VANGUARD BESPOKE
  • Home
  • House of Vanguard
    • our fabrics >
      • chino fabrics
      • linings
    • Mighel & Our story
    • Our Suits
    • For him
    • women
    • Shoes
    • Gift Experience
    • social responsibility
  • Dashing Masks
  • coats 4 naz project
  • Journal
  • Contact

New - charming & flamboyant printed lining range

15/8/2019

0 Comments

 
As the new season approaches we are receiving a number of new & updated books in our vast library. Mighel continues to visit the top fabric mills around the world to ensure we have an unrivaled selection of fabrics for you to choose from for any occasion.

Today we would like to highlight an exciting new range of linings we have added to our library for a mill in north Italy. This collection of 50 designs inspired by nature, life, hobbies & travel. Printed on a lightweight silky, satin cloth these are  great for summer and winter suits alike. Below is a selection of some of Mighel's favourite designs from the book, with such a variety to choose from we are sure there will be at least a few that will speak to any of our patrons.
Picture
These may not be for the fainthearted, but do remember the lining of your suit is rarely seen by anyone but you, so it is a great way to express your personality; even inside a very classic work suit.

Book an appointment to see these and some of the gorgeous new fabric designs, colours, patterns & ranges we have to offer.
0 Comments

Ask the tailor - What to wear to meet your tailor?

2/7/2019

0 Comments

 
Picture
If it is your first time meeting with a tailor you might be unsure of what to expect and I often get asked by clients what they should wear.

Firstly be assured a meting with Vanguard is a seamless and enjoyable experience. We expertly guide you through the process and advise you along the way of making your commissions. We usually meet clients in their homes, workplaces or at our comfortable studio in Delhi, so do not feel like you have to wear anything special.

The one thing we do ask, if you are being measured for a suit or trouser, is to wear a formal pant or chino. Jeans, shorts, skirts or loose fitting pants can make the measuring process a little more difficult but by no means impossible!
If you have a suit that you love the fit of bring it with you. We will look at it together and deduce if the style, silhouette & cut is the most flattering for you. Even if there are some things you don't like this is a great starting point. If you are buying something for a special occasion and you already have the shoes or shirt that will be worn with the suit, it's great to bring these so we can make sure we create something that will compliment.

Ultimately, we want you to be comfortable throughout our consultation. Though you may wish to wear something that shows your personal style and the tailored look you’re hoping to achieve with your next garment, there’s no rule to say this is necessary. Because, of course, we will be able to visualize and create your perfect suit whatever you wear for you consultation.  

0 Comments

New and exclusive - Vanguard Bespoke casuals

23/5/2019

0 Comments

 
Picture
We are excited to announce some new, Vanguard Bespoke exclusive ranges to our extensive fabric collections.

We have sourced some sumptuous new shirt fabrics for our in house ranges. 100% giza cotton, in light to medium weights, imported directly from Italy, these are in house exclusives and strictly limited. We will only import enough of these fabrics to make ten shirts per fabric design and once finished we will not be replenishing our stocks. So reserve your lengths today and don't miss out! Every month we will be taking delivery of new limited edition designs, so keep checking our blog for the latest collection.
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture

Every Vanguard Bespoke shirt is individually designed and cut for each of our patrons. We take great pleasure in creating inventive details that delight our customers and make each and every Vanguard Bespoke shirt truly unique.

Our shirts are made with a stiffened cotton canvas in the collar and cuff following the exact same traditions of the classic shirt makers of Savile Row. This age old technique ensures your shirts are not only comfortable to wear but keep looking sharp through the test of time.
In addition to these fantastic new shirt fabrics we have also up'ed our chino game. We now carry 2 in house ranges and 3 mill bunches of chino fabrics which come in a myriad of weights, finishes and colours.
Picture
Click here to book an appointment today.
0 Comments

Tropical summer suiting tips

15/4/2019

0 Comments

 

Summers is kicking in on the subcontinent and it's looking blisteringly hot, but that doesn't mean you have to forego your satorial style. There are many options for people who still want to look smart even if it is over 35 degrees outside.

Follow these simple tips to choosing the right cloth for your summer suits.

1. Choose lighter colours.
Light colours reflect light (and heat) rather than absorb it. For business attire pale greys & light blue hues are safe go to's.

2. Natural materials work best.
Synthetic fibres such as polyester, rayon, nylon so often found in mid level tailors fabrics are not cooling, these are all effectively plastic and you wouldn't want to wear plastic on a hot and humid summers day. So don't be fooled by false claims and dubious sales staff. Natural fibres like wool, cotton, linen are much cooler to wear in tropical climates.

3. Choose a fabric with an open weave.
When you choose a fabric hold it up to the light to see how open the weave is. With an open weave fabric you will see small gaps between the warp and weft like looking through a sieve. These fabrics premit airflow and are great to wear when it's hot and sticky.

4. Consider a half lined or unlined jacket.
These are great for summer time, they make jackets lighter to wear and help with air circulation keeping you cool throughout the day.
Picture
5. Weight of cloth is not the most important factor.
This may seem wrong but refer back to points 1-4. A tightly woven, light-weight, fully lined, black suit in a wool blend is going to be much hotter to wear than an open weave, mid-weight, pale coloured, unlined suit in a pure wool. That said, you don't really want to go over a 12 Oz fabric for summer time even if it ticks all the above boxes.

Here at Vanguard we have carefully curated a selection of over 6000 fabrics from the world's best mills. Within our range we have specifically sourced fabrics that would be perfect for tropical weather.

Book an appointment today, we are now in Delhi, Mumbai, Dhaka, London.
0 Comments

8 ways to wear a navy striped suit

11/2/2019

0 Comments

 
Traditionally the reserve of bankers on wall street, the striped navy suit is extremely adaptable and doesn't have to look overly corporate. These are some of the ways you can adapt this wardrobe staple for different occasions and to show your personality.
Picture
Business - wear your 2 piece with a white shirt, classic tie, formal shoes and a pocket square.
Picture
Less formal office look - ditch the shirt & tie and wear your suit with a roll neck for a relaxed yet still formal enough for a meeting outfit. This can be worn with formal shoes or loafers but not sneakers.
Picture
Casual Fridays - For something that can take you from the office to a Friday night date, team the jacket with a pair of chinos and a printed shirt. Show some personality with some fun shoes and accessories like this lapel pin to match the shirt.
Picture
The Creative - Creative types who want to dress up for a day yet not look like a banker can wear a striped suit effortlessly. Team the suit with a classic T-shirt, (prints are ok, slogans not) and a pair of white sneakers.
Picture
Formal dinner - Some people will tell you the navy stripe suit is purely office attire however it can be dressed up for an evening event. Wear the suit with a white shirt, black waistcoat, formal shoes, a neck tie or bow tie and a lapel pin.

Picture
Smart/casual weekend - For an event that requires smart/casual attire, team your jacket with a pair of linen trousers and some loafers. Wear with a button down shirt without a tie and add a bright coloured pocket square to keep things looking smart.
Picture
Formal separates - This works well for a wedding or event without a strict dress code but where you still want to look sharp. Wear the trousers with a jacket in a tonal or light colour, like this light navy silk/linen nehru jacket or a stone coloured blazer. Wear with formal shoes and a tie or pocket square.
Picture
Casual evening - A good look for a date, gallery opening or a night out with friends. Wear the jacket with a black polo, slim fitting black jeans and a formal shoe, add a pocket square for a little panache.
0 Comments

A ticket pocket - what is it and do I need it?

27/1/2019

0 Comments

 
Picture
A ticket pocket on a suit refers to a small flapped or jetted pocket normally found on the right side of a jacket and roughly half the width of a regular pocket. You may have been sporting this dandy feature without knowing or perhaps you think it is a new fad but this humble pocket has a long British sartorial history dating back to the 1600's and it was not used for tickets as today's name might suggest.
When the first toll roads, or as they were then known turnpike roads were introduced, people traveling on horse back found they needed to have access to change to pay for these tolls. To save gentlemen of the middle ages opening their jackets to pay tolls they had their tailors make a small change pocket on their equestrian jackets. This was made slightly higher so it would be easier to access while sitting on their horse.

It was only in the mid 1800's when railroads and train travel became hugely popular that this small coin pocket was adapted to what we know it as now, namely a ticket pocket that was used for train tickets. Urban gentleman getting frustrated with having to search their pockets for tickets started having this small extra pocket tailored on their work suits.
Picture
Today this is not a necessary item, most of us store our travel tickets digitally or travel by car. But this is still popular in bespoke circles not just in Britain but sported by well heeled men (and women) the world over to show a little extra panache and style IQ. It does still have some practical use in today's world, it is the perfect size and very handy for storing business/visiting cards.
Really you could use it for any purpose, a key, money, receipts, metro card, aspirin, a pen drive, a tea bag, the list goes on!
And it also works very well for tall and larger gentlemen, as it breaks up a large expanse of fabric with a fine detail.
If you like this British-dandy vibe there are a couple of simple rules to follow.

Traditionally it is always on the right side.

Should you be left handed this may seem counter intuitive to you, however with the breast pocket on the left side your jacket can look a little unbalanced with 3 pockets on one side and 1 on the other. If you definitely want a left side ticket pocket then go all out and have them on both sides to keep the look balanced.

Picture
Ticket pockets are a great addition to a seasonal blazer such as a Harris Tweed sports coat or a linen summer jacket.
Picture
Book an appointment today and let us guide you on a sartorial journey.
0 Comments

A well tailored or Off the rack suit: Can make or break a business deal!

23/1/2019

0 Comments

 
Picture

​Are you in constant dilemma when it comes to wear a suit  in a business meeting, networking event, or even a job interview? Many of you’d just rush off to a store or your local tailors to buy or make a suit that perhaps don’t fit you right, but you have got no choice but make comprise with that ill fitted suit. And when you dress in a frumpy suit, you’re in a constant battle in your mind about your appearance; you feel uncomfortable, lack in confidence and eventually perform ineffectually even though you have got the skills and expertise to win the heart of your investors, customers or employers!


On the contrary, you can put a little bit of extra effort in a well tailored suit that has just been made to your body measurements fits you impeccably and gives you a sharp, stylish and polished look. Not only a well tailored suit makes your look more flattering, but it is also going to last you for a lifetime.

​
Most importantly a well tailored suit gives a great first impression of yours and your company to your investors and customers; increases the chances of them perceiving you as someone confident and competent in their job and makes it lot easier to close the deal!

0 Comments

Nehru VS. Modi: Whom the Jacket belongs to?

9/1/2019

0 Comments

 
Picture
Picture
​Recent controversies sprung all over the Internet when South Korean President Moon Jae-in tweeted picture of him wearing the sleeveless jacket gifted to him by Prime Minister Narendra Modi.
 
Some are calling it Nehru Jacket, and some are calling it Modi Jacket, how about we call it All India jacket. 
 
When India’s first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru started wearing the jacket in 1940s, it became popular among the fashionistas of Delhi. The jacket, rather known as Bandi the word derived from the Sanskrit Bandhnati meaning ‘to fasten’ or ‘to tie’ was inspired by the Mughal era, tailored by the westerner became the formal wear for the rich and powerful gentlemen. It was hip-length, full sleeved and well-tailored jacket worn during winter. 
In the 1960’s the famous UK music band Beatles came on a music tour, they were captivated and wore the Nehru jacket on their music tour. They even brought style back to the UK and popularised it as the Beatles Jacket. 
Picture
After half a century later, the now Prime Minister popularized the jacket that is perhaps inspired by Nehru Jacket, but this time around it was tailored without sleeves, with a relaxed fit and in 50 shades of khadi and wearable all the year round. And all these in one jacket, that too in a affordable price range, people started running to shop and asking for “Modi Jacket”. And soon it became the fashion trend of mass people.

Keeping politics aside, both Nehru and Modi were and are trendsetters of their times and gave us jackets that truly belong to All India!

0 Comments

January 09th, 2019

9/1/2019

0 Comments

 

Plus size, big and tall, portulent, even curvy are all phases coined to describe gentlemen who are a little taller, a little rounder or a little broader.

If you fall into this category you know how difficult it is to buy any kind of clothing. Off the rack clothing is designed for a model with V shape physic and then graded up to larger sizes. This just doesn't work for any of those that fall into the plus size category, the scale and balance is all wrong.

This is where we come in.

A great suit should be your boardroom battle armour, you put it on in the morning and no matter what you have in your calendar you are dressed impeccably for any challenge. So few guys fall into the regular shape and scale of off the peg that bespoke is the best option, this becomes more apparent on plus size guys.
Picture
The lapel width for example is not wide enough for their frame, to get a suit that big enough to put on and close the buttons the balance from front to back is all off. Trousers are often not tapered specifically for the larger waist and you can end up drowning in fabric.

With any tailor worth his salt there is no plus size, no broad size, no petite size, it either fits or it doesn't fit. There are some additional things to consider when you are plus size which we expertly guide our customers through.

For broad guys:
A lot of broad guys see photos of James Bond and want their jacket closely nipped in at the waist. This creates quite a feminine proportion, to achieve a good balance you should allow a little more space in the waist of your jacket.

For tall guys:
A one button jacket creates a very deep V, it is advisable to choose a 2 or 3 button jacket to correct the proportion. These guys will often have large feet and contrary to popular belief a wider leg trouser just doesn't work. You want to keep it tapered and trim otherwise there will be a lot of fabric flapping around on those longer legs.

For rounder guys:
First consider where you where your trousers, on or under your tummy. Wearing your trousers on your tummy will create a sleaker silouette, you will need to wear braces/suspenders but these can be very comfortable. You can make the trousers a bit bigger on the waist so when you are sitting you have a little room to expand.
Waistcoats are great for rounder guys, especially a double breasted. It stops a hard line across your middle where your shirt meets your trouser, keeping your overall look neat.
0 Comments

A suit worth 10 Lakh INR/$15,000.00 USD?

31/12/2018

1 Comment

 
What does Modi have in common with ousted Egyptian dictator Hosni Mubarak and notorious Irish boxer Conor Mcgregor?
Picture
Not a lot you might say! However they have all in the recent years made the rather ostentatious choice of commissioning a suit worth 10 Lakh from their tailor. 10 Lakh! Must be made of gold you say? Well yes kind of.

These one of a kind suits are specially woven in the UK with a chosen name (or phase) in the pinstripe. Woven with gold threads no less.

Here is Modi in 2015 meeting Barack Obama in a dashing pinstripe wool bandhgala, close inspection reveals the pinstripe is in fact Modi's full name "Narendra Damodardas Modi" woven thousands of times to create a pinstripe.
Picture
But he wasn't the first world leader to commission such a tailoring extravagance as the twitterati at the time were quick to point out.
Shortly after being ousted after 30 years of ruling Egypt dictator Hosni Mubarak wore a two piece suit baring his name.
Picture
A little ostentatious considering he'd just been ousted a month previously!

And then in 2017 came Conor McGregor. He made sure all eyes were on him at a press conference for what was hyped to be the biggest boxing match in history. He lost the match but gained notoriety in tailoring history with this less than salubrious but perfectly tailored 3 piece suit.
Picture
Ostentatious? Yes.
Narcissistic? A little.
Instagram-able and unforgettable? Totally.

Working with the UK mill that made the fabric for these suits we can offer you the chance to have your very own version.
We would prefer to leave the expletives at home and suggest something a little classier, your name for example or a message to your betrothed on your wedding day.
Whatever your message get in touch today.

Delivery takes 3-4 months as each bolt of cloth is custom made to order.
1 Comment
<<Previous
Forward>>

    Vanguard Journal

    Welcome to the Vanguard journal. Here you can find some great suit tips & learn about our products.

    Archives

    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    November 2019
    October 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018

    Categories

    All
    Accessories
    Advice
    British Fabrics
    Christmas
    Cleaning Suits
    Colour
    Corporate Attire
    Delhi
    Dinner Suits
    Dry Cleaning
    Fabrics
    Hanging Suits
    Interview Attire
    Lambswool
    Linen
    Luxury Fabrics
    Mohair
    Packing Suit For Travel
    Party Suits
    Patterned Fabrics
    Socks
    Storing Your Suit
    Suit Care
    Suiting
    Women's Suits
    Zegna

    RSS Feed

  • Home
  • House of Vanguard
    • our fabrics >
      • chino fabrics
      • linings
    • Mighel & Our story
    • Our Suits
    • For him
    • women
    • Shoes
    • Gift Experience
    • social responsibility
  • Dashing Masks
  • coats 4 naz project
  • Journal
  • Contact