As the new season approaches we are receiving a number of new & updated books in our vast library. Mighel continues to visit the top fabric mills around the world to ensure we have an unrivaled selection of fabrics for you to choose from for any occasion.
Today we would like to highlight an exciting new range of linings we have added to our library for a mill in north Italy. This collection of 50 designs inspired by nature, life, hobbies & travel. Printed on a lightweight silky, satin cloth these are great for summer and winter suits alike. Below is a selection of some of Mighel's favourite designs from the book, with such a variety to choose from we are sure there will be at least a few that will speak to any of our patrons.
These may not be for the fainthearted, but do remember the lining of your suit is rarely seen by anyone but you, so it is a great way to express your personality; even inside a very classic work suit.
Book an appointment to see these and some of the gorgeous new fabric designs, colours, patterns & ranges we have to offer.
If you have a suit that you love the fit of bring it with you. We will look at it together and deduce if the style, silhouette & cut is the most flattering for you. Even if there are some things you don't like this is a great starting point. If you are buying something for a special occasion and you already have the shoes or shirt that will be worn with the suit, it's great to bring these so we can make sure we create something that will compliment.
Ultimately, we want you to be comfortable throughout our consultation. Though you may wish to wear something that shows your personal style and the tailored look you’re hoping to achieve with your next garment, there’s no rule to say this is necessary. Because, of course, we will be able to visualize and create your perfect suit whatever you wear for you consultation.
We are excited to announce some new, Vanguard Bespoke exclusive ranges to our extensive fabric collections.
We have sourced some sumptuous new shirt fabrics for our in house ranges. 100% giza cotton, in light to medium weights, imported directly from Italy, these are in house exclusives and strictly limited. We will only import enough of these fabrics to make ten shirts per fabric design and once finished we will not be replenishing our stocks. So reserve your lengths today and don't miss out! Every month we will be taking delivery of new limited edition designs, so keep checking our blog for the latest collection.
In addition to these fantastic new shirt fabrics we have also up'ed our chino game. We now carry 2 in house ranges and 3 mill bunches of chino fabrics which come in a myriad of weights, finishes and colours.
Click here to book an appointment today.
5. Weight of cloth is not the most important factor.
This may seem wrong but refer back to points 1-4. A tightly woven, light-weight, fully lined, black suit in a wool blend is going to be much hotter to wear than an open weave, mid-weight, pale coloured, unlined suit in a pure wool. That said, you don't really want to go over a 12 Oz fabric for summer time even if it ticks all the above boxes.
Here at Vanguard we have carefully curated a selection of over 6000 fabrics from the world's best mills. Within our range we have specifically sourced fabrics that would be perfect for tropical weather.
Book an appointment today, we are now in Delhi, Mumbai, Dhaka, London.
Traditionally the reserve of bankers on wall street, the striped navy suit is extremely adaptable and doesn't have to look overly corporate. These are some of the ways you can adapt this wardrobe staple for different occasions and to show your personality.
A ticket pocket on a suit refers to a small flapped or jetted pocket normally found on the right side of a jacket and roughly half the width of a regular pocket. You may have been sporting this dandy feature without knowing or perhaps you think it is a new fad but this humble pocket has a long British sartorial history dating back to the 1600's and it was not used for tickets as today's name might suggest.
Today this is not a necessary item, most of us store our travel tickets digitally or travel by car. But this is still popular in bespoke circles not just in Britain but sported by well heeled men (and women) the world over to show a little extra panache and style IQ. It does still have some practical use in today's world, it is the perfect size and very handy for storing business/visiting cards.
Really you could use it for any purpose, a key, money, receipts, metro card, aspirin, a pen drive, a tea bag, the list goes on! And it also works very well for tall and larger gentlemen, as it breaks up a large expanse of fabric with a fine detail.
Ticket pockets are a great addition to a seasonal blazer such as a Harris Tweed sports coat or a linen summer jacket.
Book an appointment today and let us guide you on a sartorial journey.
Are you in constant dilemma when it comes to wear a suit in a business meeting, networking event, or even a job interview? Many of you’d just rush off to a store or your local tailors to buy or make a suit that perhaps don’t fit you right, but you have got no choice but make comprise with that ill fitted suit. And when you dress in a frumpy suit, you’re in a constant battle in your mind about your appearance; you feel uncomfortable, lack in confidence and eventually perform ineffectually even though you have got the skills and expertise to win the heart of your investors, customers or employers!
On the contrary, you can put a little bit of extra effort in a well tailored suit that has just been made to your body measurements fits you impeccably and gives you a sharp, stylish and polished look. Not only a well tailored suit makes your look more flattering, but it is also going to last you for a lifetime.
Most importantly a well tailored suit gives a great first impression of yours and your company to your investors and customers; increases the chances of them perceiving you as someone confident and competent in their job and makes it lot easier to close the deal!
Recent controversies sprung all over the Internet when South Korean President Moon Jae-in tweeted picture of him wearing the sleeveless jacket gifted to him by Prime Minister Narendra Modi.
Some are calling it Nehru Jacket, and some are calling it Modi Jacket, how about we call it All India jacket.
When India’s first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru started wearing the jacket in 1940s, it became popular among the fashionistas of Delhi. The jacket, rather known as Bandi the word derived from the Sanskrit Bandhnati meaning ‘to fasten’ or ‘to tie’ was inspired by the Mughal era, tailored by the westerner became the formal wear for the rich and powerful gentlemen. It was hip-length, full sleeved and well-tailored jacket worn during winter.
After half a century later, the now Prime Minister popularized the jacket that is perhaps inspired by Nehru Jacket, but this time around it was tailored without sleeves, with a relaxed fit and in 50 shades of khadi and wearable all the year round. And all these in one jacket, that too in a affordable price range, people started running to shop and asking for “Modi Jacket”. And soon it became the fashion trend of mass people.
Keeping politics aside, both Nehru and Modi were and are trendsetters of their times and gave us jackets that truly belong to All India!
The lapel width for example is not wide enough for their frame, to get a suit that big enough to put on and close the buttons the balance from front to back is all off. Trousers are often not tapered specifically for the larger waist and you can end up drowning in fabric.
With any tailor worth his salt there is no plus size, no broad size, no petite size, it either fits or it doesn't fit. There are some additional things to consider when you are plus size which we expertly guide our customers through.
For broad guys:
A lot of broad guys see photos of James Bond and want their jacket closely nipped in at the waist. This creates quite a feminine proportion, to achieve a good balance you should allow a little more space in the waist of your jacket.
For tall guys:
A one button jacket creates a very deep V, it is advisable to choose a 2 or 3 button jacket to correct the proportion. These guys will often have large feet and contrary to popular belief a wider leg trouser just doesn't work. You want to keep it tapered and trim otherwise there will be a lot of fabric flapping around on those longer legs.
For rounder guys:
First consider where you where your trousers, on or under your tummy. Wearing your trousers on your tummy will create a sleaker silouette, you will need to wear braces/suspenders but these can be very comfortable. You can make the trousers a bit bigger on the waist so when you are sitting you have a little room to expand.
Waistcoats are great for rounder guys, especially a double breasted. It stops a hard line across your middle where your shirt meets your trouser, keeping your overall look neat.
What does Modi have in common with ousted Egyptian dictator Hosni Mubarak and notorious Irish boxer Conor Mcgregor?
Not a lot you might say! However they have all in the recent years made the rather ostentatious choice of commissioning a suit worth 10 Lakh from their tailor. 10 Lakh! Must be made of gold you say? Well yes kind of.
These one of a kind suits are specially woven in the UK with a chosen name (or phase) in the pinstripe. Woven with gold threads no less.
Here is Modi in 2015 meeting Barack Obama in a dashing pinstripe wool bandhgala, close inspection reveals the pinstripe is in fact Modi's full name "Narendra Damodardas Modi" woven thousands of times to create a pinstripe.
But he wasn't the first world leader to commission such a tailoring extravagance as the twitterati at the time were quick to point out.
Shortly after being ousted after 30 years of ruling Egypt dictator Hosni Mubarak wore a two piece suit baring his name.
A little ostentatious considering he'd just been ousted a month previously!
And then in 2017 came Conor McGregor. He made sure all eyes were on him at a press conference for what was hyped to be the biggest boxing match in history. He lost the match but gained notoriety in tailoring history with this less than salubrious but perfectly tailored 3 piece suit.
Narcissistic? A little.
Instagram-able and unforgettable? Totally.
Working with the UK mill that made the fabric for these suits we can offer you the chance to have your very own version.
We would prefer to leave the expletives at home and suggest something a little classier, your name for example or a message to your betrothed on your wedding day.
Whatever your message get in touch today.
Delivery takes 3-4 months as each bolt of cloth is custom made to order.
Welcome to the Vanguard journal. Here you can find some great suit tips & learn about our products.