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September 09th, 2020

9/9/2020

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#dashingmasks4india update!

It has been a while since we updated the progress of our campaign. Things got really SO SO busy at Vanguard HQ, we have been working round the clock to keep up with demand for our #dashingmasks4india.

To date we have sold over 6000 masks (!) and donated over 32,000 meals from the proceeds of dashing masks.

Throughout the summer as countries have opened up we have been shipping our masks all over the world. From New Zealand to Botswana, Trinadad & Tobago to the Philippines our campaign has really gone global and we are humbled by the response to our small idea which grew into something much bigger than we initially conceived.

As with anything that scales rapidly there were some hurdles to overcome...
Scaling up the meal donations in the way were doing them at the start of the campaign - volunteers visiting poor areas & busy transport hubs around the city, became impossible to manage on scale. So we enlisted the help of a network of local NGO's that shared our vision. Our #dashingmasks4india campaign is now funding a number of projects providing meals to those in need. At the moment this includes lunches for children in slums in Mumbai, soup kitchens outside hospitals in Delhi & a meals on wheels van that visits slum areas in and around Delhi.

While we couldn't find a way to continue to support street food vendors, this change came at a time when Delhi was opening up and moving again so our support was less critical. As the NGO's we work with were better organized in this sector our average meal donation per mask has now gone up to just over 6 meals per mask - which is pretty awesome!
We also had to double the size of our factory. Mighel (Vanguard founder) quite literally got moved into the broom cupboard to make way for more craftspeople to have space in our workshop to make our dashing masks. He did manage to turn this into a compact & cozy office!

Along with more tailors we have taken on 2 apprentice women, one in tailoring and another in admin which are doing brilliantly. Working with another partner NGO Vanguard is aiming to provide training to women from our local community to help them gain skills & financial independence.

Our distribution in the UK got a little more organized last month. While we were (and are) eternally grateful to the volunteers who helped us overcome direct distribution hurdles by packing envelopes, the time came where the amount of orders were too much for 3 volunteers to handle. So we have now switched to a packing and distribution warehouse, enabling us to ship even more masks in a quicker time!

A designer collaboration with long time friend and very talented designer Manish Bansal was launched exclusively on Etsy last week.
We have updated our standard design to include a bendable nose bridge and internal filter pocket as standard. Many new colours and designs have been added to our ranges.
Including:
The disco ball mask
Some limited edition exclusive prints on silky bembergs & linens
Ikat cotton 3 packs
Pastel linen 3 packs
Madras check 3 packs
A blue camo vote mask - Trump leave the veterans alone!

And as of today you can customize any of our masks with an initial, a heart or 5-6 letter word. Using studs, springs, chains, sequins (& anything shiny!) this new addition adds a personal unique touch to our masks which we love.
Head over to our Etsy store to see all the fun stuff!
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/VanguardBespoke
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July 05th, 2021

5/7/2020

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#DASHINGMASKSINDIA update

We have just crossed 1000 masks & 6000 meals donated!

Through our 6 feeding points across the city of Delhi our group of volunteers have given out over 6000 meals, 6000! This has all happened in just 1 month since we launched #dashingmasks4india on 3rd June. To these kind volunteers - who are not just giving up time but taking the risk to step out of home and help the vulnerable, while the pandemic continues, we salute you!

We are adding some new designs & colourways to our collection, coming this week visit our Etsy store to purchase!
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/VanguardBespoke
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June 17th, 2020

17/6/2020

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Our designer made this simply illustration to show how the wearing of face masks helps everyone right now.
Our dashing masks are available online for just $4.99.
A non-profit, 1 mask = meals for 5.
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June 10th, 2020

10/6/2020

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#dashingmasks4india update

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#Dashingmasks4india update!!

Things got a little busy here at Vanguard HQ after our #dashingmasks4india launch last week. The feedback on our superb masks & non-profit campaign has been incredible.
There were a few hiccups in the first few days! Face mask promotions are currently banned online worldwide (grrr FB & google!) & a never ending stream of paperwork needed to currently export masks out of India. It seemed like an uphill struggle but we got there!

Today we are sending a large batch to London. Giving us 2 distribution centres (India & UK), deliveries of #dashingmasks4india will be even quicker & more cost effective, no matter where you are.

So far this week we have received orders & meal donations equaling 826 meals! We will be distributing them at multiple locations in Delhi over the coming week.
A superb number for our first full week of sales!

With the whole weekend still to go we would love to reach 1000 meals in our first week - it's just such a nice number!
That's only 35 masks we need to sell to reach this awesome milestone.
So if you have been planning to get dashing and order some #dashingmasks4india visit our website or Etsy store & order your masks now - the sale of just 1 mask feeds 5 people!

Next week we will be hiring 1 new tailor so we can keep up with making #dashingmasks4india.
The benefits of our masks are really 4 fold:
1. You look dashing & stay safe.
2. Made in India at our socially responsible (and rather lovely) workshop we are creating jobs when they are direly needed.
3. All profits provide meals for people in India who are suffering from the fallout of Covid-19. Just 1 mask feeds 5!
4. By only using street food vendors to provide our free meals we are giving these micro business owners a much needed boost.
It's not just a win win - it's a win, win, win, win!

Stay Safe - Be Stylish - Do Good
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June 01st, 2020

1/6/2020

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Launching today - #dashingmasks4india

Today we are excited to launch our #dashingmasks4india campaign.
We have created a uniquely well fitted & fashionable mask in over 40 unisex designs. Hand crafted in our own tailoring workshop & using only the finest materials that offer different levels of filtration.

Choose from seersuckers, printed linens, check cottons, luxury jacquard weave shirtings, sequins & velvets!
From only $4.99 (USD) / ₹349 (INR).

All profits from #dashingmasks4india will be used to provide meals for people in India who desperately need them.
Just one mask will provide five meals.

A set of five masks - to see you through Monday-Friday - will feed twenty five people!

Shipping internationally (and pan India)
Regular (adult) & small (teenager) sizes available in all designs
Visit our Etsy Store to snap up your today!

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/VanguardBespoke
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Tailors Tricks - Balancing long or short torsos and legs

12/4/2020

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A good magician never reveals his tricks, how about a good tailor?
Well you're in luck.

As a tailor it's a little odd to speak of "irregular" body shapes as a deviation from the norm. Tailors know that nearly all men and women have some peculiarities. In fact the perfectly proportioned symmetrical person that off-the-peg clothing is designed for, are a tiny minority.

As the lockdown continues here in Delhi I felt this was the perfect opportunity to delve deep into some of the smoke and mirrors that can be created with the right choices.

Today I'll be looking at men with long torso's & short legs followed by men with short torso's and long legs.  Not to be confused with tall or short people, this is a difference in balance between top and bottom half that can apply people of all heights.
I will share some of things I do in cutting & styling advice offered for these body types. Along with additional pieces to compliment your Vanguard Bespoke wardrobe.

These tricks are as applicable to women as they are for men.
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Any tailor worth his salt will assess torso balance first and foremost. Take a look at the red dotted line, this is the base of the crotch on an average man. It is around half way between the shoulders & the floor.
In the left illustration the torso is shorter and legs are longer. In the right the torso is longer and legs are shorter.

I'm going to look at the Longer Torso with Shorter Legs first.

This is quite common for people with stocky builds, guys who have prominent tummies and some are just born that way.

If you find shirts can be too short to stay tucked in, along with trousers you buy in stores being too long, you may well fall into this category.

Below are some top tips & cutting secrets for balancing this body figuration.
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Your suit jacket should fall around the red dotted line we looked at previously, the crotch level.
One of the easiest ways to re-balance top to bottom proportions for a long torso is to cut the jacket a little higher than normal.

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Longer torso's should avoid 1 button jackets. When the jacket is fastened it creates an elongated V of the shirt, that only accentuates the longer torso.
Instead a high 2 button jacket, 3 button or a double breasted will work better with your proportions.

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Slanted pockets draw the eye up and down creating a lengthening illusion, not great if your torso is already longer.
You would be better served with straight pockets & a ticket pocket with flaps, as these create breaks in the mid section.

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For a casual tailored outfit a check jacket with defined horizontal stripes will create the same breaks in the top half as straight pockets.
Team it with a darker trouser than the jacket, as this will also help to lengthen the leg.

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A matching waistcoat with a trouser is flattering, as it stops you from having a definite break at the waistline.
Also opt for a matching or tonal fabric on the back of waistcoat, rather than a high contrast, for the same reason.

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A higher buttoning waistcoat or a double breasted, is better for longer torsos.
In the same way we looked at for jackets, it avoids the elongated V of the shirt that makes the torso look longer.

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A trouser leg that is more tapered, IE. narrows at the ankle, will create a lengthening illusion.

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Another trouser trick is to slim the knee only, creating a "barely there" bootcut.
This also affords your trousers to be cut slightly longer, without unsightly bunching on the top of your shoe.

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A trouser with a slightly wider waistband will help lift the waistline & lengthen the leg.
Trousers don't need to be high rise, a normal waistband can be between 1-2" wide. That extra inch can make all the difference!

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When you are wearing only trousers and a shirt, illusions can be created with patterns.
Checks on the top or stripes on the bottom will help to visually rebalance proportions.

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Things to avoid:
  1. Cuffs on pants create an unwanted break
  2. Wider leg pants will make your short legs look even shorter
  3. Striped shirts or jackets will make the long torso longer
  4. When dressing casually tuck in your shirt

Shorter Torso, longer legs
Men and women alike prefer longer legs. Studies have shown that both sexes find longer legs more appealing than shorter legged counterparts. Not just on women but also on men.
In fashion magazines and adverts (men's included) it is normal for editors to lengthen the models legs in photoshop by 10-15%.

So if you fall into this category congratulations, you may be secretly envied by your colleagues and more desired!

That said, here we are talking about tailoring tricks to create balance, so I'm going to give you tips on making the torso appear longer and legs shorter.

If you think you fall into this category you should find that off-the-peg shirts & tops are too long AND trousers you buy in stores are too short in the inseam.
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Jackets are normally cut to the base of the crotch and just covering the rear at the back.
If you have a short torso and long legs, a neat trick to balance out these proportions is to cut the jacket a little longer.

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For a short torso it helps to create lengthening illusions, one of these is to avoid high buttoning jackets.
A two button single breasted or even a one button will create a lengthened V of the shirt, drawing the eye and making the torso look longer.

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Another neat lengthening trick for your jacket is to opt for slanted pockets without flaps, or a ticket pocket.
This creates flattering, non breaking lines on the body, that makes the torso appear longer.

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When wearing a 3 piece suit it helps to create balance if you keep your jacket on.
The lower hem of your jacket rather than the higher hem of the waistcoat is more flattering for your proportions.

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Waistcoats are normally cut to just cover the bottom of the trouser waistband. For a short torso we can cut slightly longer by an inch or so.
It is also advisable to avoid high buttoning waistcoats. A lower opening that shows more of the shirt will lengthen the appearance of your torso.

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When choosing a separates look opt for a brighter top half or one with a distinct stripe.
Avoid a lighter jacket with a darker pant, as this will draw emphasis to the leg.

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If we want to make longer legs look shorter a few of tricks can be deployed.
A pleated front on your trouser and a less slim/regular fit, will create a shortening illusion.

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Adding a cuff or turn up to the hem of the trouser creates a break in the longer expanse of fabric.

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A trouser cut to sit slightly lower on the waist will add to the torso and take away from the leg.
This can be achieved with a low rise or a narrow waistband.

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Check trousers with a more definite horizontal stripe will give the appearance of a more balanced frame.

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For casual day-to-day shirts, men with shorter torsos should avoid short sleeves. A full sleeve draws the eye down.
If your dress code allows, an untucked shirt will also help to re-balance your proportions.

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Striped shirts help to create a lengthening appearance of the torso.

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For men with short torsos diagonal or vertical stripe ties will work better than solids.
You may also need to consider having your ties custom made to ensure they are the correct length.

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Things to avoid:
Bold check shirts shorten the torso.
Striped trousers or very slim/skinny fit pants will lengthen your already long legs.

I hope you found these tips informative. As mentioned at the start of the article having a regular body shape is irregular. 90% of men have some oddities and knowing your own body type can help you dress better.
For women readers you can apply the same logic to feminine dress. For example the advice on waistcoat openings can equally apply to dress or blouse necklines.

Come back in the following days, I will be sharing more cutting secrets & tips for the whole gambit of different shapes. From apples to pears & triangles to squares!
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Style movie guide - men in suits on film

22/3/2020

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As the world takes a breath and stays home, this may become the biggest "netflix and chill" season ever.
Here at Vanguard Bespoke we will be staying home, using the time to finely tune what we do & eagerly await the storm to pass to resume operations.
We would like to highlight some of our top stylish movies for men in cinema through the ages. A source of dressing inspiration even if you're mainly dressed in your pajamas right now. By no means a definite list, just some that we love!

The Thomas Crown Affair 1968 & 1999
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The first making of this film is THE film that made Steve McQueen a style icon of the time. Interestingly it is said that Sean Connery turned down this movie and it is one of his biggest regrets. The 1999 version sees another Mr Bond, Pierce Brosnan take the lead role.
Both movies feature the stars as rich playboys attempting to pull of a robbery/heist and allow the viewer to revel in their exuberant and stylish luxury.
The costume designers of both films show how to make timeless looks through the main characters, turning to veteran tailors of the time that created quite similar silhouettes for both films. The tailor for the original film was a stalwart from Savile Row and the remake a Milan based tailor very popular with the Hollywood A-list.
Both movies are great inspirations for classic 3-piece suits & we find the casual wear from the film equally classy and inspiring.

Interesting suit fact about the 1999 version, Pierce Brosnan, who was still Bond at the time, had a clause in his Bond contract that he could not be a film attending a black tie event wearing a black tuxedo. To work around this they put him a midnight blue tuxedo, which was later made hugely popular by Daniel Craig playing Bond in Skyfall.

The Great Gatsby 1974 & 2013

Movies which we featured in our new year post about suits from the 1920's. Little did we know then that the parallels of the 1920's and 2020's would be mirrored by epidemics rather than beautiful tailoring! You can read that post here.
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Both movie's are a treasure trove of inspiration for tailoring fans, set in the roaring 20's at the height of inter war excess. Stylistically 2 quite different films but both featuring an enormous variety amount of sharply tailored & interesting suits.
Our favourite's are Robert Redford's light coloured suits, the baby pink 3-piece above in particular. Also in the remake Tobey Maguire's trim cut 3 piece tweed with a contrasting waistcoat is an amazing look.
Both films could be accused of style over substance but who cares, they are a visual treat!

The Towering Inferno 1974

Disaster movies seem to be quite popular at the moment - if what's trending on our Netflix is anything to go by. Not normally revered for their style this may seem an interesting choice.

Let's start with the cast:
William Holden, Faye Dunaway, Fred Astaire, as well as Paul Newman and Steve McQueen. The only movie featuring these two style icons of classic Hollywood cinema together.
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Set at the opening of what is supposed to be the most glamorous and opulent building of the time in San Fransisco at the peak of the disco era. Tuxedo's with overly wide lapels, frilly shirts, oversized bow ties, flared trousers, aviator glasses & safari jackets.
If you haven't seen it yet, we're sure you can guess from the name that there is a fire and this epic (nearly 3 hours) features the all star cast fighting through a night as the fire engulfs the building. Special mention to Faye Donaway's iconic dress from the film, a gorgeous sheer beautifully cut gown that somehow makes it through to the end of the film.
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Focus - 2015

This movie deserves a mention for tall/muscular guys to take some notes from the styling choices of Will smith's suits.
Three piece suits and plaid patterns are the key looks with details such as bright, contrasting silk pocket squares that add further character to the single breasted, single button suits.
Where the costume designer got this right was in the proportions, as they are perfect for Will's frame, generous cut lapels, shirt collars & wider ties work perfectly. The splashes of colour are not overdone but draw the eye just enough.
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American Gigolo - 1980

The film that made Armani.

This movie is often cited as a changing point in menswear. Marking the start of the 80's Armani created less structured informal looks for the star Richard Gere. The suits he created were mostly devoid of padding, canvasing and lining.
Spurning tweeds and flannels the fabrics he used were wool crepe's, linen and silk which gave a free flowing softer silhouette.
Check the scene where Gere's character Julian lays all his suits out on the bed, this guy seriously loves his wardrobe. It is one film where the character's wardrobe become a a star of the movie itself.
Shot in stylistic way that mirrored Italian cinema of the time, American Gigolo still deservedly tops most lists of cinema style & is still a reference point and inspiration piece for tailors and designers today.
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A Single Man - 2009

Not content with being one of the most talked about designers of the noughties Tom Ford turned his hand to film with A Single Man his directorial debut. This film set in the 60's has a very definitive stylistic signature with immense attention given to detail.

And as expected from someone of Tom Ford's calibre the tailoring does not disappoint. The fit is impeccable and every accessory considered and understated.
Interesting suit fact, it is suggested in the film that Colin Firth's character George visits London's Savile Row to get his suits tailored but all were made in Italy, at tom Ford's own factory of course.
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The interesting choice's made in A Single Man is the colour palette of suits, brown features heavily. It is sound advice to stick with a palette of very adaptable Navy's and Grey's. The brown suits that are featured cross a fine line of being dark enough to look distinguished in the winter, yet light enough to wear throughout the summer. A brown suit offers the wearer something of an old world academia charm, exceedingly dignified and effortlessly relaxed.

Crazy Stupid Love - 2011
We found this romcom very interesting as it turns the usual gender stereotypes on it's head. Casting two cool superstar males, Ryan Gosling and Steve Carell as the leads. The women are in control, not waiting around to be whisked off by their knights.
But it is the "make over" montage which wins it for us, Ryan Gosling gives Steve Carell's hopeless character a 101 in elegant dressing.
Post make over Carell's suits are spot on but it is Ryan Gosling's wardrobe throughout the film that strikes the perfect balance of modern and classic.
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Casino - 1995

Martin Scorsese's 3 hour long epic of the underbelly of Las Vegas has such attention to detail in the costume department. Sharon Stone shines bright in beaded gowns and furs but it's Robert De Niro's incredibly varied wardrobe of suits that we love.
He does not shy away from colour and occassionally mixes it up sprezzatura style, bringing out the rakish personality of the character perfectly.
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The Talented Mr Ripley - 1999
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Clothing features heavily in the narrative of this film, a 1999 remake of a classic from the 60's starring Jude Law & Matt Damon.
Ultimately about Matt Damon's character Tom Ripley who emulates Jude Law's Dickie who is a perfect example of the jet-setting bourgeois of the late 50's. The opening scene for example sees Mr Ripley donning 3 different jackets as he takes on different characters, something that runs throughout the movie.

But what we love most about this film is seeing the 1950's American Ivy League tailoring in all it's glory on the colourful Italian Riviera. Also the sharp contrast between Italian and American tailoring of the time is very evident to see.

That's all from us for now, maybe you think some are missing from this list? Feel free to add your thoughts in the comments below.

Note - We have purposefully left off all of James Bond movies, though many deserve to be here. As we continue to self isolate we are planning to re-watch them all in order so tune in next week for our round up of James Bond's suits through the ages from a tailors perspective.
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Vanguard's guide to jacket vents

14/2/2020

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Following on from our pockets post last week, we would like to look at another option that "maketh the suit", vents. 

When talking about jackets, a vent is a vertical opening at the base of the jacket normally to just above the seat area. Originally created for horseback riding their purpose remaining largely unchanged, to give ease of movement and retain the lines of jacket when sitting and moving.
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With a little less variety than pockets there are 3 options to choose from, none, one & two, each with some benefits. We will start with Vanguard's favourite, two vents.

Two vents - AKA side vents/double vents

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Two vents make an elegant choice for nearly all men’s suits. Traditionally an integral part of the British cut two vents offer less constriction of movement and easier access to your trouser pockets for the times you need to go fishing for small change, keys, etc.
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This style is also suitable for nearly all body shapes. Men who have a slightly stooped posture, a curved lower back or a prominent seat will find jackets with one vent do not hang so well.

One vent - AKA single/centre vent

This option is traditionally part of the American cut. It’s somewhat of a compromise between two vents and none, offering some freedom of movement when sitting. As mentioned above it’s not suitable for all body shapes.
Here at Vanguard we like a centre vents on more casual blazers with a boxier fit as it sits stylistically with the whole look.

For our female clientele a centre vent will sit better for longer jackets. It affords our cutters more opportunity to accentuate shape from waist through to seat area. We also feel it has a slightly less masculine look on a women’s blazer in comparison to two vents.

For black tie a single vent is becoming acceptable on tuxedos. This is only on more modern tuxedos in less traditional colours, perhaps with slimmer lapels, stand alone dinner jackets for weddings rather than formal occasions.

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No Vents/Vent-less

Traditionally this was the  Italian  cut. For everyday work suits we do not advise this option as the wearer can find movement restrictive. Also when sitting unless you completely take off your jacket you will find the back seat area can become crushed. That said there are a few occasions when no vents are advisable.
For formal black/white tie tuxedos jackets should have no vents, no if’s no but’s!
For female clientele creating a cropped jacket that sits above the seat line this is nice option to create a very waisted silhouette.

In conclusion; for those in any doubt go for a double vent on all suit jacket except formal tuxedos. For women a single vent on all but the most cropped jackets is the safest option.


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Vanguard's guide to choosing the right pocket for your jacket

5/2/2020

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When creating a bespoke jacket there are near countless options & combinations of these options to choose from. One of the most important ones to completing the look is choosing the right pocket style. A few things need to be taken into consideration such as fabric, the cut, the lapel design, end use of the suit, the wearer's body shape & personal style can all factor. To an untrained eye it can be simple to go for the safest option, in the hands of one of our experts we can guide you through this process seamlessly.

Here will run through 6 main pocket styles and give some insight into what they can offer your look.

1. Patch pockets
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Vanguard offers a few different styles with patch pockets, from the clean plain patch to the box pleated and flapped.
Patch pockets give a more casual feel to a jacket and thus they work particularly well on a casual/weekend piece in tweed, linen, cotton & seersucker. They look really great on bold over-check jacketing fabrics but will take the overall look into the casual realm.

2. Slanted pockets

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These used to sit in the more casual styling of a lounge suit but times have changed!
We like a slanted pocket in combination with a peaked lapel &/or a 1 button jacket as it creates flattering lines on the body. On stripes these look great but we normally advise against them on check fabrics as it goes against the square pattern of the cloth. We also make an extreme slant on the pocket for the more adventurous patron!

3. Straight flapped pockets

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This is the traditional business suit pocket, it looks clean, totally functional, you can’t really go wrong. Along with all styles of flapped pockets the flaps can be tucked in to look like a flapless jetted pocket for a cleaner look. We prefer these on checked cloths as it follows the lines of the fabric & double breasted to follow the alignment of the buttons.

4. Jetted pockets

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These are essentially the same as the flapped pocket just minus the flaps. As a flapped pocket gives you the option to tuck in or tuck out your flap (thus creating 2 different looks) we prefer to always go with flaps except in a few circumstances.
It is still uncouth to have a flapped pocket on dressier jackets such as tuxedos and morning jackets. When choosing a more modern style with piped edges and contrast detailing (such as our patron in the photo above) this cleaner pocket can emphasize those details.

5. Ticket pockets

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We love ticket pockets. Do read our separate blog all about the humble ticket pocket and it’s history. We feel this gives a jacket a slight dandy & bespoke touch. Originally for tickets (hence the name) we find it very handy for business cards.
This works well on larger frames who chose plain fabrics, as it helps to break up a large expanse of one colour. A ticket pocket can (and we feel should!) be added to patch, slanted, flapped and jetted pockets.

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6. Welt pocket.
The simplest of pocket styles this really should only be sported on waistcoats & nehru jackets. (Barring the breast pocket of a jacket of course!)
Clean and simple, we like these on patterned fabrics such as this twirl two tone linen, sported by our found Mighel Critten. Keeping the styling simple allows the fabric to speak for itself and not overload the eye.

Notice Mighel added a ticket pocket to this also? Like I said we love them!

And that's a wrap on our pocket rundown. There are many variations on the above styles and while the choices can be bewildering, our experts will guide you through the process of creating a perfect bespoke piece. To book an appointment today click here!
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A quick guide to: "Buttoning Etiquette"

26/1/2020

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Wishing all here in India a Happy Republic Day!
We hope you enjoy this sartorial post on “buttoning etiquette”.

Jackets - The rules to follow when buttoning are shown in the grapic above “Always, Never, Sometimes”. A lot of men prefer not fasten their jackets, however you are comfortable.
Do note that following the above rules for your jacket fastening even if only when entering a room will help accentuate a V-Shape or conceal love handles.
Of course when you sit down please unfasten your jacket and give yourself room to breathe. And all the above can also be abandoned in cold or windy weather, wrap up & button up so you do not catch a cold!


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Shirts: Needless to say when wearing a neck tie all buttons need to be fastened. A sure fire sign of a cheap/ill fitting shirt is one where to wearer has the collar button unfastened when wearing a tie.
If you opt to not wear a tie, you can button the shirt to the top for what millennial's now call the “air tie” look - also known as the “mod look” to those over a certain age. Nowadays this still looks smart enough for the office or a function and can work particularly well with shirts that have some detail on the collar.
Nowadays wearing your top collar button unfastened is acceptable for day wear, still not for a formal meeting or event. For a casual/weekend look you can unfasten another button for comfort, this works particularly well if you have requested a slightly higher buttoning from your tailor.

Waistcoat:

The etiquette when wearing a waistcoat is to keep the last button unfastened.
This dates back over 100 years to a rather fat king of England, George VII. His voracious appetite and ever expanding waistline made it difficult for him to comfortably fasten his bottom button, so he simply didn't. So as not to make him feel bad all the men at court followed suit and started wearing theirs unfastened. And so this slightly odd fashion trend began and to this day is followed religiously by tailoring affectionados.

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Interestingly and lesser known, the "sometimes, always, never" rule for jackets also dates back to King Edward VII.
It was during his time that the modern day lounge suit started to appear, originally as a 3 button single breasted jacket as a more comfortable dress for riding. As it was a riding jacket the bottom button had to be undone as it fell below the waistline. This new style of jacket became hugely popular during Edward’s reign and he decided that it “looked common” to wear with the top button fastened, thus leaving just the middle button to fasten his coat.

And so began another trend that goes on to this day.

For more fun facts, suiting advice & impeccable tailoring book an appointment with one of our tailoring experts today!


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