A good magician never reveals his tricks, how about a good tailor?
Well you're in luck.
As a tailor it's a little odd to speak of "irregular" body shapes as a deviation from the norm. Tailors know that nearly all men and women have some peculiarities. In fact the perfectly proportioned symmetrical person that off-the-peg clothing is designed for, are a tiny minority.
As the lockdown continues here in Delhi I felt this was the perfect opportunity to delve deep into some of the smoke and mirrors that can be created with the right choices.
Today I'll be looking at men with long torso's & short legs followed by men with short torso's and long legs. Not to be confused with tall or short people, this is a difference in balance between top and bottom half that can apply people of all heights.
I will share some of things I do in cutting & styling advice offered for these body types. Along with additional pieces to compliment your Vanguard Bespoke wardrobe.
These tricks are as applicable to women as they are for men.
Any tailor worth his salt will assess torso balance first and foremost. Take a look at the red dotted line, this is the base of the crotch on an average man. It is around half way between the shoulders & the floor.
In the left illustration the torso is shorter and legs are longer. In the right the torso is longer and legs are shorter.
I'm going to look at the Longer Torso with Shorter Legs first.
This is quite common for people with stocky builds, guys who have prominent tummies and some are just born that way.
If you find shirts can be too short to stay tucked in, along with trousers you buy in stores being too long, you may well fall into this category.
Below are some top tips & cutting secrets for balancing this body figuration.
Things to avoid:
Shorter Torso, longer legs
Men and women alike prefer longer legs. Studies have shown that both sexes find longer legs more appealing than shorter legged counterparts. Not just on women but also on men.
In fashion magazines and adverts (men's included) it is normal for editors to lengthen the models legs in photoshop by 10-15%.
So if you fall into this category congratulations, you may be secretly envied by your colleagues and more desired!
That said, here we are talking about tailoring tricks to create balance, so I'm going to give you tips on making the torso appear longer and legs shorter.
If you think you fall into this category you should find that off-the-peg shirts & tops are too long AND trousers you buy in stores are too short in the inseam.
I hope you found these tips informative. As mentioned at the start of the article having a regular body shape is irregular. 90% of men have some oddities and knowing your own body type can help you dress better.
For women readers you can apply the same logic to feminine dress. For example the advice on waistcoat openings can equally apply to dress or blouse necklines.
Come back in the following days, I will be sharing more cutting secrets & tips for the whole gambit of different shapes. From apples to pears & triangles to squares!
Thanks for this great article. I have a long torso and shorter legs and I haven’t found much on the internet to help with this, until now. One question - you suggest wearing shorter jackets to compensate for longer torso. My problem with that is at the rear where a shorter jacket covers so little that it just doesn’t look right. Any solution? Thanks
Thanks for the article...
Nice content :) thanks for those dress tips
Thank you so much for this article, you don't know how much it helped me
My favorite part of this article is the importance of having a lengthy function if you want to look longer. My cousin told me last night that he was hoping to find a reliable tailor that could help him with his suit for a business event, and he asked if I had any idea what would be the best option to do. Thanks to this informative article, I’ll be sure to tell them that it will be much better if they consult a suit tailor for more information.
These are some valuable tips for tailoring clothes to suit different body types, whether you have a longer torso and shorter legs or a shorter torso and longer legs. Understanding your body shape and making the right choices can greatly enhance your appearance. For more cutting secrets and tips for various body shapes, check out my blog at https://curatedtrend.com/5-fashion-hacks-for-men/
Leave a Reply.
Welcome to the Vanguard journal. Here you can find some great suit tips & learn about our products.