Tailors Tricks - Balancing long or short torsos and legs

A good magician never reveals his tricks, how about a good tailor?
Well you're in luck.

As a tailor it's a little odd to speak of "irregular" body shapes as a deviation from the norm. Tailors know that nearly all men and women have some peculiarities. In fact the perfectly proportioned symmetrical person that off-the-peg clothing is designed for, are a tiny minority.

As the lockdown continues here in Delhi I felt this was the perfect opportunity to delve deep into some of the smoke and mirrors that can be created with the right choices.

Today I'll be looking at men with long torso's & short legs followed by men with short torso's and long legs.  Not to be confused with tall or short people, this is a difference in balance between top and bottom half that can apply people of all heights.
I will share some of things I do in cutting & styling advice offered for these body types. Along with additional pieces to compliment your Vanguard Bespoke wardrobe.

These tricks are as applicable to women as they are for men.

Any tailor worth his salt will assess torso balance first and foremost. Take a look at the red dotted line, this is the base of the crotch on an average man. It is around half way between the shoulders & the floor.
In the left illustration the torso is shorter and legs are longer. In the right the torso is longer and legs are shorter.

I'm going to look at the Longer Torso with Shorter Legs first.

This is quite common for people with stocky builds, guys who have prominent tummies and some are just born that way.

If you find shirts can be too short to stay tucked in, along with trousers you buy in stores being too long, you may well fall into this category.

Below are some top tips & cutting secrets for balancing this body figuration.

Your suit jacket should fall around the red dotted line we looked at previously, the crotch level.
One of the easiest ways to re-balance top to bottom proportions for a long torso is to cut the jacket a little higher than normal.

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Longer torso's should avoid 1 button jackets. When the jacket is fastened it creates an elongated V of the shirt, that only accentuates the longer torso.
Instead a high 2 button jacket, 3 button or a double breasted will work better with your proportions.

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Slanted pockets draw the eye up and down creating a lengthening illusion, not great if your torso is already longer.
You would be better served with straight pockets & a ticket pocket with flaps, as these create breaks in the mid section.

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For a casual tailored outfit a check jacket with defined horizontal stripes will create the same breaks in the top half as straight pockets.
Team it with a darker trouser than the jacket, as this will also help to lengthen the leg.

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A matching waistcoat with a trouser is flattering, as it stops you from having a definite break at the waistline.
Also opt for a matching or tonal fabric on the back of waistcoat, rather than a high contrast, for the same reason.

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A higher buttoning waistcoat or a double breasted, is better for longer torsos.
In the same way we looked at for jackets, it avoids the elongated V of the shirt that makes the torso look longer.

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A trouser leg that is more tapered, IE. narrows at the ankle, will create a lengthening illusion.

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Another trouser trick is to slim the knee only, creating a "barely there" bootcut.
This also affords your trousers to be cut slightly longer, without unsightly bunching on the top of your shoe.

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A trouser with a slightly wider waistband will help lift the waistline & lengthen the leg.
Trousers don't need to be high rise, a normal waistband can be between 1-2" wide. That extra inch can make all the difference!

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When you are wearing only trousers and a shirt, illusions can be created with patterns.
Checks on the top or stripes on the bottom will help to visually rebalance proportions.

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Things to avoid:

1. Cuffs on pants create an unwanted break
   
2. Wider leg pants will make your short legs look even shorter
   
3. Striped shirts or jackets will make the long torso longer
   
4. When dressing casually tuck in your shirt
   

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Shorter Torso, longer legs
Men and women alike prefer longer legs. Studies have shown that both sexes find longer legs more appealing than shorter legged counterparts. Not just on women but also on men.
In fashion magazines and adverts (men's included) it is normal for editors to lengthen the models legs in photoshop by 10-15%.

So if you fall into this category congratulations, you may be secretly envied by your colleagues and more desired!

That said, here we are talking about tailoring tricks to create balance, so I'm going to give you tips on making the torso appear longer and legs shorter.

If you think you fall into this category you should find that off-the-peg shirts & tops are too long AND trousers you buy in stores are too short in the inseam.

Jackets are normally cut to the base of the crotch and just covering the rear at the back.
If you have a short torso and long legs, a neat trick to balance out these proportions is to cut the jacket a little longer.

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For a short torso it helps to create lengthening illusions, one of these is to avoid high buttoning jackets.
A two button single breasted or even a one button will create a lengthened V of the shirt, drawing the eye and making the torso look longer.

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Another neat lengthening trick for your jacket is to opt for slanted pockets without flaps, or a ticket pocket.
This creates flattering, non breaking lines on the body, that makes the torso appear longer.

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When wearing a 3 piece suit it helps to create balance if you keep your jacket on.
The lower hem of your jacket rather than the higher hem of the waistcoat is more flattering for your proportions.

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Waistcoats are normally cut to just cover the bottom of the trouser waistband. For a short torso we can cut slightly longer by an inch or so.
It is also advisable to avoid high buttoning waistcoats. A lower opening that shows more of the shirt will lengthen the appearance of your torso.

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When choosing a separates look opt for a brighter top half or one with a distinct stripe.
Avoid a lighter jacket with a darker pant, as this will draw emphasis to the leg.

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If we want to make longer legs look shorter a few of tricks can be deployed.
A pleated front on your trouser and a less slim/regular fit, will create a shortening illusion.

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Adding a cuff or turn up to the hem of the trouser creates a break in the longer expanse of fabric.

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A trouser cut to sit slightly lower on the waist will add to the torso and take away from the leg.
This can be achieved with a low rise or a narrow waistband.

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Check trousers with a more definite horizontal stripe will give the appearance of a more balanced frame.

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For casual day-to-day shirts, men with shorter torsos should avoid short sleeves. A full sleeve draws the eye down.
If your dress code allows, an untucked shirt will also help to re-balance your proportions.

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Striped shirts help to create a lengthening appearance of the torso.

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For men with short torsos diagonal or vertical stripe ties will work better than solids.
You may also need to consider having your ties custom made to ensure they are the correct length.

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Things to avoid:
Bold check shirts shorten the torso.
Striped trousers or very slim/skinny fit pants will lengthen your already long legs.

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I hope you found these tips informative. As mentioned at the start of the article having a regular body shape is irregular. 90% of men have some oddities and knowing your own body type can help you dress better.
For women readers you can apply the same logic to feminine dress. For example the advice on waistcoat openings can equally apply to dress or blouse necklines.

Come back in the following days, I will be sharing more cutting secrets & tips for the whole gambit of different shapes. From apples to pears & triangles to squares!