Style movie guide - men in suits on film

As the world takes a breath and stays home, this may become the biggest "netflix and chill" season ever.
Here at Vanguard Bespoke we will be staying home, using the time to finely tune what we do & eagerly await the storm to pass to resume operations.
We would like to highlight some of our top stylish movies for men in cinema through the ages. A source of dressing inspiration even if you're mainly dressed in your pajamas right now. By no means a definite list, just some that we love!

The Thomas Crown Affair 1968 & 1999

The first making of this film is THE film that made Steve McQueen a style icon of the time. Interestingly it is said that Sean Connery turned down this movie and it is one of his biggest regrets. The 1999 version sees another Mr Bond, Pierce Brosnan take the lead role.
Both movies feature the stars as rich playboys attempting to pull of a robbery/heist and allow the viewer to revel in their exuberant and stylish luxury.
The costume designers of both films show how to make timeless looks through the main characters, turning to veteran tailors of the time that created quite similar silhouettes for both films. The tailor for the original film was a stalwart from Savile Row and the remake a Milan based tailor very popular with the Hollywood A-list.
Both movies are great inspirations for classic 3-piece suits & we find the casual wear from the film equally classy and inspiring.

Interesting suit fact about the 1999 version, Pierce Brosnan, who was still Bond at the time, had a clause in his Bond contract that he could not be a film attending a black tie event wearing a black tuxedo. To work around this they put him a midnight blue tuxedo, which was later made hugely popular by Daniel Craig playing Bond in Skyfall.

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The Great Gatsby 1974 & 2013

Movies which we featured in our new year post about suits from the 1920's. Little did we know then that the parallels of the 1920's and 2020's would be mirrored by epidemics rather than beautiful tailoring! You can read that post here.

Both movie's are a treasure trove of inspiration for tailoring fans, set in the roaring 20's at the height of inter war excess. Stylistically 2 quite different films but both featuring an enormous variety amount of sharply tailored & interesting suits.
Our favourite's are Robert Redford's light coloured suits, the baby pink 3-piece above in particular. Also in the remake Tobey Maguire's trim cut 3 piece tweed with a contrasting waistcoat is an amazing look.
Both films could be accused of style over substance but who cares, they are a visual treat!

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The Towering Inferno 1974

Disaster movies seem to be quite popular at the moment - if what's trending on our Netflix is anything to go by. Not normally revered for their style this may seem an interesting choice.

Let's start with the cast:
William Holden, Faye Dunaway, Fred Astaire, as well as Paul Newman and Steve McQueen. The only movie featuring these two style icons of classic Hollywood cinema together.

Set at the opening of what is supposed to be the most glamorous and opulent building of the time in San Fransisco at the peak of the disco era. Tuxedo's with overly wide lapels, frilly shirts, oversized bow ties, flared trousers, aviator glasses & safari jackets.
If you haven't seen it yet, we're sure you can guess from the name that there is a fire and this epic (nearly 3 hours) features the all star cast fighting through a night as the fire engulfs the building. Special mention to Faye Donaway's iconic dress from the film, a gorgeous sheer beautifully cut gown that somehow makes it through to the end of the film.

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Focus - 2015

This movie deserves a mention for tall/muscular guys to take some notes from the styling choices of Will smith's suits.
Three piece suits and plaid patterns are the key looks with details such as bright, contrasting silk pocket squares that add further character to the single breasted, single button suits.
Where the costume designer got this right was in the proportions, as they are perfect for Will's frame, generous cut lapels, shirt collars & wider ties work perfectly. The splashes of colour are not overdone but draw the eye just enough.

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American Gigolo - 1980

The film that made Armani.

This movie is often cited as a changing point in menswear. Marking the start of the 80's Armani created less structured informal looks for the star Richard Gere. The suits he created were mostly devoid of padding, canvasing and lining.
Spurning tweeds and flannels the fabrics he used were wool crepe's, linen and silk which gave a free flowing softer silhouette.
Check the scene where Gere's character Julian lays all his suits out on the bed, this guy seriously loves his wardrobe. It is one film where the character's wardrobe become a a star of the movie itself.
Shot in stylistic way that mirrored Italian cinema of the time, American Gigolo still deservedly tops most lists of cinema style & is still a reference point and inspiration piece for tailors and designers today.

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A Single Man - 2009

Not content with being one of the most talked about designers of the noughties Tom Ford turned his hand to film with A Single Man his directorial debut. This film set in the 60's has a very definitive stylistic signature with immense attention given to detail.

And as expected from someone of Tom Ford's calibre the tailoring does not disappoint. The fit is impeccable and every accessory considered and understated.
Interesting suit fact, it is suggested in the film that Colin Firth's character George visits London's Savile Row to get his suits tailored but all were made in Italy, at tom Ford's own factory of course.

The interesting choice's made in A Single Man is the colour palette of suits, brown features heavily. It is sound advice to stick with a palette of very adaptable Navy's and Grey's. The brown suits that are featured cross a fine line of being dark enough to look distinguished in the winter, yet light enough to wear throughout the summer. A brown suit offers the wearer something of an old world academia charm, exceedingly dignified and effortlessly relaxed.

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Crazy Stupid Love - 2011
We found this romcom very interesting as it turns the usual gender stereotypes on it's head. Casting two cool superstar males, Ryan Gosling and Steve Carell as the leads. The women are in control, not waiting around to be whisked off by their knights.
But it is the "make over" montage which wins it for us, Ryan Gosling gives Steve Carell's hopeless character a 101 in elegant dressing.
Post make over Carell's suits are spot on but it is Ryan Gosling's wardrobe throughout the film that strikes the perfect balance of modern and classic.

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Casino - 1995

Martin Scorsese's 3 hour long epic of the underbelly of Las Vegas has such attention to detail in the costume department. Sharon Stone shines bright in beaded gowns and furs but it's Robert De Niro's incredibly varied wardrobe of suits that we love.
He does not shy away from colour and occassionally mixes it up sprezzatura style, bringing out the rakish personality of the character perfectly.

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The Talented Mr Ripley - 1999

Clothing features heavily in the narrative of this film, a 1999 remake of a classic from the 60's starring Jude Law & Matt Damon.
Ultimately about Matt Damon's character Tom Ripley who emulates Jude Law's Dickie who is a perfect example of the jet-setting bourgeois of the late 50's. The opening scene for example sees Mr Ripley donning 3 different jackets as he takes on different characters, something that runs throughout the movie.

But what we love most about this film is seeing the 1950's American Ivy League tailoring in all it's glory on the colourful Italian Riviera. Also the sharp contrast between Italian and American tailoring of the time is very evident to see.

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That's all from us for now, maybe you think some are missing from this list? Feel free to add your thoughts in the comments below.

Note - We have purposefully left off all of James Bond movies, though many deserve to be here. As we continue to self isolate we are planning to re-watch them all in order so tune in next week for our round up of James Bond's suits through the ages from a tailors perspective.