A ticket pocket on a suit refers to a small flapped or jetted pocket normally found on the right side of a jacket and roughly half the width of a regular pocket. You may have been sporting this dandy feature without knowing or perhaps you think it is a new fad but this humble pocket has a long British sartorial history dating back to the 1600's and it was not used for tickets as today's name might suggest.
Today this is not a necessary item, most of us store our travel tickets digitally or travel by car. But this is still popular in bespoke circles not just in Britain but sported by well heeled men (and women) the world over to show a little extra panache and style IQ. It does still have some practical use in today's world, it is the perfect size and very handy for storing business/visiting cards. Really you could use it for any purpose, a key, money, receipts, metro card, aspirin, a pen drive, a tea bag, the list goes on! And it also works very well for tall and larger gentlemen, as it breaks up a large expanse of fabric with a fine detail.
Ticket pockets are a great addition to a seasonal blazer such as a Harris Tweed sports coat or a linen summer jacket. Book an appointment today and let us guide you on a sartorial journey.
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Are you in constant dilemma when it comes to wear a suit in a business meeting, networking event, or even a job interview? Many of you’d just rush off to a store or your local tailors to buy or make a suit that perhaps don’t fit you right, but you have got no choice but make comprise with that ill fitted suit. And when you dress in a frumpy suit, you’re in a constant battle in your mind about your appearance; you feel uncomfortable, lack in confidence and eventually perform ineffectually even though you have got the skills and expertise to win the heart of your investors, customers or employers! On the contrary, you can put a little bit of extra effort in a well tailored suit that has just been made to your body measurements fits you impeccably and gives you a sharp, stylish and polished look. Not only a well tailored suit makes your look more flattering, but it is also going to last you for a lifetime. Most importantly a well tailored suit gives a great first impression of yours and your company to your investors and customers; increases the chances of them perceiving you as someone confident and competent in their job and makes it lot easier to close the deal! Recent controversies sprung all over the Internet when South Korean President Moon Jae-in tweeted picture of him wearing the sleeveless jacket gifted to him by Prime Minister Narendra Modi. Some are calling it Nehru Jacket, and some are calling it Modi Jacket, how about we call it All India jacket. When India’s first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru started wearing the jacket in 1940s, it became popular among the fashionistas of Delhi. The jacket, rather known as Bandi the word derived from the Sanskrit Bandhnati meaning ‘to fasten’ or ‘to tie’ was inspired by the Mughal era, tailored by the westerner became the formal wear for the rich and powerful gentlemen. It was hip-length, full sleeved and well-tailored jacket worn during winter. After half a century later, the now Prime Minister popularized the jacket that is perhaps inspired by Nehru Jacket, but this time around it was tailored without sleeves, with a relaxed fit and in 50 shades of khadi and wearable all the year round. And all these in one jacket, that too in a affordable price range, people started running to shop and asking for “Modi Jacket”. And soon it became the fashion trend of mass people.
Keeping politics aside, both Nehru and Modi were and are trendsetters of their times and gave us jackets that truly belong to All India!
The lapel width for example is not wide enough for their frame, to get a suit that big enough to put on and close the buttons the balance from front to back is all off. Trousers are often not tapered specifically for the larger waist and you can end up drowning in fabric.
With any tailor worth his salt there is no plus size, no broad size, no petite size, it either fits or it doesn't fit. There are some additional things to consider when you are plus size which we expertly guide our customers through. For broad guys: A lot of broad guys see photos of James Bond and want their jacket closely nipped in at the waist. This creates quite a feminine proportion, to achieve a good balance you should allow a little more space in the waist of your jacket. For tall guys: A one button jacket creates a very deep V, it is advisable to choose a 2 or 3 button jacket to correct the proportion. These guys will often have large feet and contrary to popular belief a wider leg trouser just doesn't work. You want to keep it tapered and trim otherwise there will be a lot of fabric flapping around on those longer legs. For rounder guys: First consider where you where your trousers, on or under your tummy. Wearing your trousers on your tummy will create a sleaker silouette, you will need to wear braces/suspenders but these can be very comfortable. You can make the trousers a bit bigger on the waist so when you are sitting you have a little room to expand. Waistcoats are great for rounder guys, especially a double breasted. It stops a hard line across your middle where your shirt meets your trouser, keeping your overall look neat. What does Modi have in common with ousted Egyptian dictator Hosni Mubarak and notorious Irish boxer Conor Mcgregor? Not a lot you might say! However they have all in the recent years made the rather ostentatious choice of commissioning a suit worth 10 Lakh from their tailor. 10 Lakh! Must be made of gold you say? Well yes kind of. These one of a kind suits are specially woven in the UK with a chosen name (or phase) in the pinstripe. Woven with gold threads no less. Here is Modi in 2015 meeting Barack Obama in a dashing pinstripe wool bandhgala, close inspection reveals the pinstripe is in fact Modi's full name "Narendra Damodardas Modi" woven thousands of times to create a pinstripe. But he wasn't the first world leader to commission such a tailoring extravagance as the twitterati at the time were quick to point out. Shortly after being ousted after 30 years of ruling Egypt dictator Hosni Mubarak wore a two piece suit baring his name. A little ostentatious considering he'd just been ousted a month previously! And then in 2017 came Conor McGregor. He made sure all eyes were on him at a press conference for what was hyped to be the biggest boxing match in history. He lost the match but gained notoriety in tailoring history with this less than salubrious but perfectly tailored 3 piece suit. Ostentatious? Yes.
Narcissistic? A little. Instagram-able and unforgettable? Totally. Working with the UK mill that made the fabric for these suits we can offer you the chance to have your very own version. We would prefer to leave the expletives at home and suggest something a little classier, your name for example or a message to your betrothed on your wedding day. Whatever your message get in touch today. Delivery takes 3-4 months as each bolt of cloth is custom made to order. Vanguard Bespoke is a visiting bespoke tailoring company based in Delhi, soon to come to Dhaka to cater to all your tailoring needs.
We empathize the hassle you have to go through finding a good tailor in Dhaka who understands and can deliver your desired clothing. A lot of times you have to rush and make few trips to your local tailors driving through the congested traffic of Dhaka and come home with utter disappointment. Hence we are here to offer you one stop bespoke experience for both men and women at your office or home. Modern, well-traveled, tech-savvy, Dhakaite’s are simply much better informed about what fabrics, fit and level of bespoke they want. Local tailors just can’t live up to this new standard. They only have fabrics of questionable quality, they don’t understand contemporary fit’s and the construction is of such sub-standard quality you’d be lucky if the suits they make last a few wears. Which is why we are really pleased to be bringing our world class tailoring service to Dhaka. Now through our visiting tailoring service we are offering the highest standard of bespoke tailoring on your doorstep or in your office. Why choose us as your personal tailors?
Get in touch to find out more and book an appointment, you won’t be disappointed.
Suits
For business formals a grey and a navy suit should be your go to, in something lightweight for the long and hot summers. We always recommend buying a 3 piece (with a waistcoat) to give you the option to wear as a 2 piece suit and a 3 piece suit. If you need to wear a suit to work every day you need a minimum of 3 suits on rotation. Add in a black suit or a different shade of grey. If you are wearing suits on a daily or weekly basis buy a second pair of trousers. 99% of the time it is the trousers that will wear out before the jacket, by getting 2 trousers you double the lifespan of your suit. Shirts If you are wearing shirts every day, 6 shirts to start is advisable, Monday to Friday and one in reserve. Get your basic solid colours first before patterns as these will be your go to. And getting 2 white shirts is a good idea as they go with everything. A Casual Blazer Something to wear at the weekend and to informal work events where you still need to be presentable. Linen is a great option for this. A Coat A classic tailored coat to wear over your suits is a must for the cooler winter months and overseas travel. Choose something in a muted palette such as midnight blue or charcoal, these will never go out of style. Tuxedo For those who go to black tie events a tuxedo is a must. Choose something classic and timeless in black or midnight blue. Once these basics are out of the way then you can have some more fun. Add in some bespoke chinos, a tweed blazer, some patterned suits such as stripes and checks, something warmer for the winter, something snazzy for weddings, some brighter coloured suits, a second more casual coat, a velvet jacket for formal dinners. The list goes on! Much like a lot of our fellow Delhites and our friends over in Europe we know some Christmas parties will be coming soon. So close after Diwali festivities and with wedding season in full swing this time of year can feel like one long holiday! While Christmas jumpers are all the rage this time of year in the US we like to be a little more well dressed for our Christmas gatherings. Now is the time to prepare, below are some tips to get you ready and keep you looking dapper over the period.
We here at Vanguard are big fans of brightly coloured socks. We believe it is great way to liven up a business suit and if done correctly can look considered & stylish.
We are talking about anything from bold primary colours, softer pastels, geometric patterns and argyles. There are however some exceptions to this rule where it is advisable to play it down and stick to a conservative colour palette. Funerals for example, it would be entirely inappropriate to wear bright hosiery with your suit. Tread carefully at formal business occasions like interviews, presentations or big meetings. You want people focused on what you are saying not what you are wearing. That said some high profile business men still go bold on such occasions, they can because they own the company and are probably the interviewer not the interviewee. It's almost a challenge - I know the rules but who cares, I like it, deal with it. Those occasions out of the way now let's discuss why bold is good. It makes a statement, it tells people I have considered every part of my ensemble, nothing is by accident. It also livens up a more muted ensemble, a red sock really pops with a sombre grey suit and makes it much more fun. There are some ways to do this. 1. Choose an accent colour and run with it for all accessories. If your suit has a green lining or a green check compliment this with green tonal ties, pocket squares and socks. 2. When wearing a brightly coloured chino choose another colour that compliments or clashes. A tonal coloured sock won't work so well in these situations. It can make your trousers or socks look washed out and old unless it's a very close colour match. 3. If wearing a muted chino with a brightly coloured shirt or jacket pull out that colour for a considered look. 4. Patterned multi coloured are ok, comedy socks are not. Would you wear a tie with tacos, dinosaurs or giraffes on? Probably not. If you like patterns go for something geometric or classic like an argyle. Here at Vanguard we have over 6000 fabrics for you to choose from, the variety is seemingly endless!
Within all of our ranges we have some patterns with accent colours like the ones above from the Ermenegildo Zegna traveller four season range. A beautiful collection of cloths made from Superfine Australian wool, woven in Italy which we import directly from this world renowned mill. I digress slightly, back to these patterns. When selecting a fabric for a new bespoke creation people get very hung up on the accent colours. Does the blue stripe bring out my eyes? Is the lilac check going to match the colour scheme at my wedding? My favourite colour is red but not the red of this pinstripe, a much brighter red. Is there a different shade of blue lining to match the stripe. While these things are great if they can be done, you should focus on the base. The accent colours of stripes or checks like the ones in the above fabrics will rarely be seen, they are essentially both light grey suits. As a tip and something we always do with our customers, hold the fabric 1.5-2 metres away from you to get a better idea of how it will look, more often than not these accent colours can not be seen. |
Vanguard Journal
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